Will need to give it a try soon. Its dried a little translucent and it is gloss and looks wet. He's a regular contributor to White Dwarf Magazine including 4 Armies of the Month features and has written articles for the Warhammer Community site. 
Rust settles where water settles, typically in recesses but stippling fixes that, however, you can stipple any orange paint and get the same result. I have found that a pot can almost do 1000 points of big miniatures and around 750 of smaller minis but it really depends on the bases, how thick you apply it and so on. This is a picture of the texture just after it has been applied to a base that has been primed black. Garfy is a UK hobbyist with over twenty years experience. Dry brushing is where you load up a brush with paint and then wipe off 95% of the paint on a tissue and then brush across the raised area of a model. I have kept their old images as a reference anyway. For each different texture paint, I have tried to provide pictures that accurately display what it is you are getting from the paint. My pot of Agrellan Earth worked a charm. The GW version of booth agrellanversions is not that far from each other, if you look past that I got a bit too much texture on my badland version. First, you will get a lot of pictures of each paint. Right of the bat, it is clear to see what the difference there is between these versions and the earlier grit versions, at least if you see them side by side as above. Hope the Games Workshop Paint will be that great. Doesnt take too long to dry which is good. The three paints all come in a 24ml version for 4.75 from Games Workshop. Shoutout to our fantastic patrons: Chris C., chaoticflanagan, Mike C., Wyliekyote, pawl, Fugu, FrenchHobbyist, Noelle S., Emperors Hobby, Nate H., Sigurd H., Karakal, Akhaed, Christian H., David D., Christopher O., James G., Ricardo G., Matt P., Doc Remington, Josh L., Adam, Martin D., Roger N., Bastian O., Sam P., Jimmy, Kobold, Mark S., Chris M., Thomas J., Ryan, NavyKes, David C., Andrii A., Tommaso A., and Eudon. While it can look okay, you will get a much more striking look if you mix it on top of a base with something else on it. Luckily, if it does become an issue I think it would be easy to apply a bit more snow where stuff has fallen off. I did not find any colour change in the drying process. Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust will make a good combo for Orks though. I picked up 3 of these, but as yet have not tried them. Wouldnt take long and would look pretty effective. The AgrellanEarth and the Martian Ironearth have the same crackle effect, and the Badland and Ironcrust share the same texture properties. Old pictures that Games Workshop used to display the paint side by side with a version I made. I want the oxide for some statues I am going to paint. I doubt it, but the GW video tutorial suggests you need to hit a happy medium: http://youtu.be/CFvzLX8CzrA, My personal suggestion is to stipple the corrosion paint on then drybrush normal metal over the top this would give you corrosion in the recesses with shiney metal on the raised areas. It was quite hard to get the right amount of texture on the Martian Ironcrust base. So you get a nice strong colour that runs into the recesses. You just paint it on and you get shiny green goo effect. The bases I used were primed white for another project, so I just did a good black coat on the top of them before applying the Agrellan Earth. These three represent a very classic rough texture with grit in it. What should I look for? Same with mine. I big bonus of the texture is the neatness of doing a base this way. The GW version looks pretty good, but they also have a lot going on. I've done anther to dry naturally and see if there's any difference, but will have to wait to see.. GW says that the rust is designed to be used after the typhus corrosion not before.
For me, it looks like they have done a bit more than what they describe. On the rust.
A good job on GWs part! I made my stipple brush by taking an old brush and cutting the bristles down. They mostly say technical on the front of the pot. The texture paints have a thick almost dryconsistency. I have some bases I did when these paints first came out years ago, and they are still going strong. I really hope this is limited to this pot or a small number. 
Top durability! Instead of the other texture paints, this work quite diferently. If youre unfamiliar with this range then its essentially a really thick paint. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. Doing the thick version will take a bit of practice, because of how wet the paint is. The process is surprisingly like painting the base and so does not differ from the other techniques you need to learn as a beginner. The texture will have a hard time lifting a primer, so use that for the colour you want to show through the below (unless you want to look like a noob as I did). I know its a demo run with the new colours, but its really cool just like that. A picture of the paint after it has dried completely. I took a basic three colour tournament legal painted skeleton and turned it into something much cooler using every single one of these new paints. The snow one was really bad, but the other two was okay. Light brown colours can work well with almost any other colours on the base, Armageddon Dust is paired withArmeggadon Dunes. If you plan on using it for vehicles then buy lots. I tried to replicate it with the thin version I did of it, but I used way too much. Have you checked out the videos on GW's site? I am a huge fan of the classic grit texture paints and can only recommend them. After a while, the snow texture starts to rub off, and over time this can become a problem. GW has used very little texture on their versions, so those are the images versions I have put side by side with them. If possible, glue the minis on first before you apply Agrellan Earth and Martian Ironearth, The crackle paints can be used to make cool effects on models as well, Easy solution to make a base done with other textures pop, Not that messy compared to other options (baking soda and powders), Snow bases are quite common, so you have to work to make it unique, If you think the snow is not white enough, it will be difficult to change the colour, Since it takes some practice to apply the way you want it,you might experience that the last base of your army looks much better than the first one you did. You cannot use a brush to scoop it around, but any hard tool will do nicely. There are two army bundle deals on the GW site at the moment, are you tempted mate? I find that there is a small difference in the nuance between Agrellan Earth and the Agrelland Badland, as well as between the two versions of the Martian colour. The texture will provide a quick base for miniature models and is a substitute for the normal process of using flock, cork, or other basing materials. All of the colors are the same with the same name. I found it quite easy to scoop the material out of the pots and onto the bases. His blade and loin cloth were painted with Rhinox Hide and his bronze armour was painted with Hashut Copper.
Thank you very much! This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed grey and painted black on top afterwards. His other passion is photography and cinematography, which he uses to great effect to deliver high quality content to the blog. Just apply very little texture and use the techniqueGW describes in their pdf. Yup. I think it works slightly better then watering down a turquoise colour as well. Here is what you can do to support us: Check out the websites of our sponsors, place your next orders at Wayland Games byclicking hereor on the banner on the right. The durability on the two earth versions as not that good, but I found no flaking on the Badland/Ironcrust. This is a picture of the texture just after it has been applied to a base that has been primed grey. In the following section, I will take a look at three paints that are very similar in texture type but different in colour. The crackletexture paints took a bit of damage, but I can see no marks or flake from these grit ones. 
http://immaterium.wordpress.com/2011/04/11/aow-painting-khemri-bases/, Slaves to Darkness / Warriors of Chaos (66), Review: The 25 new Citadel Contrast Colours, Review: Colour Forge Spray Primers more paint for less & matched to Citadel Colours, Review: Chaos Space Marine Cultists & Dark Commune, Review: Horus Heresy Leviathan Dreadnought with claw and drill weapons. 3. I guess is to pick up the grit rather than pickup raised areas of the model detail. All of my test bases went through the processof being in a plastic bag together while I moved house. It has a black crackle effect and has the same crackle paste as the others. Exactly the books you need to play Age of Sigmar (a guide), Best way of transporting armies for Warhammer (magnets vs foam), Hi, I am Peter Thuborg and this is Age of Miniatures, I hope you enjoy the content. You need to layer it bit to get a dramatic effect. This could be due to the consistency of texture applied to the base, a difference in how old the pots were and so on. This can be a problem because I cannot look at the two pots and she a difference in the texture. it has no fluidity. I thought the exact same thing about Ryza Rust rust is found in the recesses, whereas a drybrush would put it on the raised areas, but I think it works in parts. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed black. Age of Miniatures is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. Initial impression opening the pot is its not translucent like Tamiya clear read. Do not use only the snow effect on the base. This gives more credence to me thinking that my pot might have a crack in it, and the paint has gotten too much air. I do not find this a huge problem, because I just glue my tufts, skulls and other bits on the newly opened spots, but you need to be aware of this before drybrushing them. The Valhallan Blizzard is a very unique snow effect texture paint. You need other textures and bits to make it look good. Especially the Stirland Battlemire is quite far from how the texture looks without any paint on it. After drying, it sticks on to the base. Typhus Corrosion is a technical paint with the consistency of a shade but with grit in the paint like a texture paint. The effect looks good, but it will take you some time and effort to achieve. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed and painted black on top afterwards. Dont paint it all over, its too much. With my versions I have tried to use the paint like the others, and covered the base with it. The Valhallan Blizard comes in a 24ml version for 4.75 from Games Workshop. The colour remained the same for all of them in the drying process, but all of the paints shrunk a bit after it was dry. Even after the paint has dried a bit in one of my pots, it did not ruin it and it still cracked as it should. I will review the 11 different Citadel Texture paints sold by Games Workshop. The two different colours are light brown and a very striking red/orange. Great choice of model and application of technique, I didn't think there would be a single model that would suit all at once but this works really well. These are mainly used to do fast good looking bases. I have found a pot of Blackfire Earth, Lustrian Undergrowth andMourn Mountain Snow. Yep I picked them all up except for the rust too. I grabbed the blood, blue was and the nurgle colour. No extra costs for you and up to 20% discount on Warhammer products! The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Do note that you need to apply Badland and Ironcrust liberally in order for there to be any good crackle effect. This rust effect is quite nice and completely different to Modelmates rust effect. The three colours are grey, light sand brown and a very dark brown. Review: Speedpaint by The Army Painter really better than Contrast? First, you will get a lot of pictures of each paint. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed white and painted black on top afterwards. I have seen a couple of beginners thinking their pots were broken because they never got any crack effect, all because they only painted a very thin coat on the base. You will need some sort of tool to move it around. If you want to do that style of basing, one pot will go a long way. To apply this paint just slap it on thick with an old brush. Whilst it is thick, I kinda wished the consistency was like the slime you got as a kid with your ghostbuster toys. Not good! I doubt a wash/shade would work very good on the thin version (not a lot of cracks to fall into), but could definitely be used with the thick version. Very cool. It replaces the earlier snow pigment GW made and is my opinionvery good compared to what GW made earlier. Like crackle paste that I've used on basing in the past, I assume that getting the thickness right is the most important part. It looks like they have done a mix of a thick coat and a light coat. I use the following pictures for each texture paint: 1. This means the texture paint will now be in a clear pot (24 ml) and it will say Technical instead of Texture on the pot. Having spoken to Stahly, he says its exactly the same as Vallejo Game Colour Smokey Ink. All of the paints slightly change colour in the drying process but it is not really an issue. I put coat of mournfang down first then layered Agrellan Earth. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed grey and painted with blue afterwards. My paint didnt crack. The Astrogranite and the Armageddon Dust should be quite easy to make. The thin version lacks character and will look like basic flock from a distance. Why are they not included here? Orbecome a patronon Patreon for exclusive tutorials, guides, and behind the scenes content. In combination with the other texture of the same colour, you could get quite a lot of variety on a base (but still with a limited amount of time used), The coverage is very good, and you can do good looking bases with not a lot of texture used, You can get a different colour if you apply enough paint afterwards, Air can ruin your paint pot before you get to use the texture, Not that different from the classic texture paints, It can be hard to discern the texture from a distance (looks cool in hand but bland on the tabletop), The grit in the paints is made of plastic microbeads which is very bad for the environment if you flush excess material in the drain, Painting the rim after you are all done will make the texture pop a bit more, Booth earth versions are very beginner friendly, The Badland/Ironcrust could be painted to be a different colour, You can mix the two versions to make something more special, The two earth versions are used by many painters as a basing method. Its been specifically designed to be dry brushed. There are also some weird white specs that look like sand corn in my version, making it more likely that my pot is a failed version. I bought two of the Vampire Counts one and the Dark Elf bundle my wallet is crying. Too much and it cracks in a weird way, too little and it does not crack. The four crackle paints are even more beginner friendly than the other more gritty paints. It was fast and simple. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. I really love the model as well that you painted. In the following section, I will take a look at three slightly different texture paints: The three paints share their colour with the three textures covered in the last section. As with the other gritty textures, the durability is really good. This is a review of the new technical paints from Citadel and a tutorial on how I painted the above Skeleton. Yeah, there totally is. If not, your miniature and base can look unfinished. I was really skeptical of this range too, I also use a clear red mix for blood and looking at the bftbg pot it just looks like regular paint but the results seem good. Ive used it here to dirty up the brass. For some reason, GW decided to discontinueall of those pots. Worked fine for me. Only thing is though I blasted mine with a hair dryer to see if that would work and it did! There is a host of different materials out there. If I am going to paint expensive miniatures, I find it okay to spend a bit of money on the bases. It comes out easily, but it can be a bit difficult to get it to fall how you want it to. Getting an even coat from the Astrogranite and Mud was quite easy, so you should have no problem there. The Badland and Ironcrust give a bit of a combo between a crackle effect and a textured effect. In the following section, I will take a look at four crackle type texture paints: All of theses paints have the same sort of crackle paste in them. If you are going to base the whole of your army, it can become a bit expensive in the long run. Everything else seems to be quite good though! A new texture paint, Mordant Earth,has arrived (still need to update this post with the new paint). In about 30 seconds. Are there any videos on how to apply the texture paints? The four paints all come in a 24ml version for 4.75 from Games Workshop. You are going to see a lot of armies based with these textures, so if you want something unique you have to add more stuff to the bases, The thin version is a bit bland and the thick solution can become expensive in the long run, The grit in the paints is made of plastic microbeads which is very bad for the environment if you flush excess material in the drain (do not do that! I was slightly skeptical when the new paints were announced, because I have existing paints and methods to achieve these effects. I have based around750 of assorted big (40mm and up) miniatures with one pot, so the price is not that high. Also, it is hard to know how much texture GW has applied to their bases (the top down view is not the best for that). This has got to be the coolest name for a paint ever. A primer underneath the two earth versions is a must. If not, the paints fall right off! You have to apply Agrellan Earth very thick. Im returning the paint. Im a big fan of Tamiya clear red. The texture will dry on your base and will provide a hard texture. All in all the snow effect looks much more real than alternatives I have tried and seen. So the example above isnt a good example so below you can see a better example of how this paint looks. With the rust you should use the corrosion wash first, it has texture and runs into the recesses.