Tayda jacks aren't the best, but they are usable. I used the Offboard guide/schematic as shown on this website. Voltages:C: 8.82VB: 2.04VE: 0.3-1.57VImages will follow asap! I have read the guide and it is clearer for me. I got a PCB printed for this pedal but I'm just confused as to what parts to buy, if different resistors matter, etc.If somebody could point me out to a part list or tell me that I can just use any resistors or whatever that would be great.Thanks in advance! Reflow the solder to make sure that the joints are good andmake sure there are no unwanted bridges. Can't wait to try this with other dirt pedals! Thanks! Just finished "test driving" a few transistor optionsincluding a 2N5089 measuring a whopping 460 hfe (it seemed a little "too much", sounding harsh and "clang-y" for lack of better terms). Likewise with the Boost pot. Have you knifed between the rows? I've already got my "tube amp in a box" sound nailed (Barbershop), but for such a simple circuit, this is a really great dirty boost. You could check out these:http://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-LY14-MULTICOLOR.htmlhttp://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-VP25-MULTICOLOR.htmlhttp://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-SC-MULTICOLOR.htmlGood bang for a buck.or. The tone is the most useful part and does shape the sound a bit, but the pedal does not create any of that gain-y fuzz-y goodness you see in the video.Do you guys think this could be a crummy transistor? If so then yes I've already got that in my list to do. Doing the same from the output wire to ground will add a pulldown resistor to the output. This is one of those versatile builds that could be useful for a number of different tasks. Seems like a sort of neat way to combine the input cap panning trick with a vintage germanium Rangemaster. This should have plenty of boost so there is either a faulty component somewhere or the soldering needs attention. People on here have mentioned that on its own curing oscillation in the past. And it is nice out of the box thinking in modernising the linear/hog/bird and rangemaster.+m. Not sure about the Range, but it does go treble boost on 0% and bass boost on 100%.. Thanks for your work guys!!! It works like it shoud , also makes typical noise when i moving with knob. Tips are still welcome :). I have tried flipping the transistor and checking if I have the one way caps in the wrong way. Have a look at the AMZ link above. This pedal absolutely rules! BC547 sounded pretty interesting when the orientation was flipped - and very low noise - but sounded a bit gated. bytheway I used same comp. The manual says: 'FootSwitch - This is just your basic true-bypass switch. the controls are very interactive with one another. I knifed it after the photo so those solder bridges are gone. Hey guys I'm building my first pedal when I get back home in about a week or two. Here she is:http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/isolditnj0125/IMG_6091.jpgGet it????? I used a 1M Ohm resistor. Awesome Inc. theme. Their tip is a little too short, so you can get tip of the plug unconnected is you push the plug too far. Naga-V slamming a Rat is a very nice thing! What a great little Pedal!Sounds great with my TS808I really love my tone now & I've only a DD3 left on my board that i haven't made myself thanks to you guys :-)http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8368521070_afa02bbaf9_c.jpg, here is mine http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/brucw.jpg. That's what I'd use, or socket and try a 33u as well. I then hook these two 80uf caps together in series (- leg to + leg) creating one 40uf cap. Use shrink tube to 'neetin' this 4 cap pack up a bit. measured the 10k pot at 8.9k, added a 1k resistor in series to the 9v rail which did the trick . :), Images via dropbox (hope it works for you)https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5169.jpghttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5170.jpghttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2346008/Viper/IMG_5171.jpg. Yes, The preamp, something like SDD-3KP from Trabant Very important piece of gear to have for imitate the sound of The Edge ! I build to layout but the range pot works in reverse. I hope it will come with practising !would you (or someone else) be kind enough to control my component list for this pedal at Taydaelectronics before I put an order ?
I'm using 0,14 wire that i bought from banzai in 100m rolls for basic builds. . That's another thing you want to check.All else fails, audio probe it. and the board/pots. As I turn the boost down the hum goes comletely away until the last bit of turning it down where it comes completely back.Heat seems to also make the hum go away as I turn it down.I don't seem to have any cold joints so I'm at a loss Hello .Many thanks for this Veroboard and comments. i used a 47uF instead. Succesfully built this one! . When I use it, I have the sound of the guitar but I also have a noise like a buzzing bee.I need some help ! I'm getting some pretty massive boost and a good drive style desperation but there is a problem is buzz/hum weirdness.It seems the buzz interacts with both the boost and heat. But I still don't get the whole npn, pnp thing. Do I need to link the pot logs (Range 2&3 or Heat 1&2) or do I need to grab a cable and take cable to both logs in the pots? But they have plenty. Ahh ok I might try swapping the 3n3, It's probably meant to be thin like Brian Mays nasal tone. But theres an issue. Longer leg is +.+m. i've already wired a 2M resistor across the input lug and ground on the switch. I've made two of these now, and I had a chance to substitute some other transistors. Or did I look at the wrong 2n222a?
I'm planning to leave for summerhouse for the rest of the week tomorrow, so this day was marked as "build like a maniac" -day.. :) Tomorrow i'm going to wait for the mail and head out after that. i swaped all the el.cap still the same problemok thanks. I've experimented with that cap in this kind of circuit in the past and the difference between 47u and 33u wasn't massive so I suspect either will be fine. I have found that if you want the sound of a certain pedal. Just made this. It will be a great help for beginners, and will give an idea of the component price for the pedal)R1 / 8K2 / A-2337R2 / 68K / A-2334R3 / 220K / A-2339R4 / 2K2 / A-2341 (for led)C1 / 47p / A-527C2 / 3n3 / A-414C3 / 68n / A-707C4 / 1n / A-557C5 / 10n / A-559C6 / 40u / same as C7 ? Circuit is working fine, strange thing is that my millennium bypass switch behaves strangely with this one? and besides, bass effects usually work great on guitar too. It boosts perfectly my AC30 (liverpool tech 21 clone)and my VHT special 6. But the "heat" pot is acting more like a volume knob- i seem to remember the heat knob having the capability to provide the circuit with quite a bit of it's own distortion like you could use it as an overdrive pedal on its own. Went throught the usual suspects to no avail, then i dug up the schem, and found the resistor..I was supposed to have nice quiet evening and build just one already verified board :)Huge Congrats for 250!!!! Hello, After reading every comments, I noticed that Vince had a similar problem, a parasitic noise. Check to make sure you didn't put the wrong value resistors/caps in somewhere.One time I had a problem with a rather expensive phaser build I did. :)BTW, i used 33 + 10 (with both measuring under the rating) in parallel for the 40After fixing the resistor and reversing boost/Heat, it works. 'Of course that might just be 'snake oil' (if you'll excuse the pun!). I made this built a couple of months ago, but I want to tweak it a little bit.I used a 100n vs 68n cap and a 5.6n vs 3.3 cap to make it a little less thin, but I still find it a little spikey on the right half of the turn. Well, the board is. just built this one, it sounds really great! It remains when un plugging the guitar jack too. Galileo would be on the list, so as SD1, Tube screamer, Stuff for U2 music :))Let's see first this "simple one". A challenge you say?--- 15 minutes later ---I think i found a mistake.. Never seen this with other circuits?What might be causing this? I'll have another bash at it over the weekend. There is circuitry that will make the pop completely go away but it compromises the sound of this circuit which is a very raw circuit that relies on the interaction between it and your guitar and amp to do its magic. Keep em coming! That unverified tag is awesome thing! You could solve the "pop" by adding a pulldown resistor to the output,just put it between the output lug of the foot switch and the ground lugs. Newbie mistake :)))Otherwise, once again many thanks for your advices. How would I manipulate the caps.I am putting 2 into a 125B for high boost and low boost.This is the nicest littl treble/boost pedal yes. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter. That would be super useful for me.Am I right in thinking that the heat pot is wired so it's just a variable resistor so even it was wired in the wrong way it would still function alright? Lot of talk regards to 40uf cap.What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. And they have Neautrik/Rean jacks for reasonable prices too. I intend to build this as my first pedal. Right now (after some flipping the 2N2222A) I get some sound but with huge hum and noise. What suggestions do you guys have?Thanks! Solid core wire, standard wire ? http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/jd_roost/IMAG1192-1Small.jpgNext to my Hwy 89. Hammering in the countryside is much better than here in the city. I was thinking of changing the heat pot to a 20k, but if someone could recommend swapping out some components to get more life out of this pedal?thanks so much in anticipation for your help.Cheers guys! Thanks. What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. Sweet, might just have to check this one out buddy, thanks! I built mine with a 2N4401.
Hey guys,This was my first build from this page. :0), Any chance that 40K elec can be subbed with a 47? Thanks. Hello .I have completed my first pedal, and it works !! I've also added a 1M anti-pop resistor. You can see if that is the cause by disconnecting the LED and seeing if you're still experiencing the popping. ;o). What kind of wire is recommended ? If you're planning on build just one or two (believe me, it won't stay that way), banzai and musikding have kits with all the stuff needed for boxing:http://www.banzaimusic.com/Effects-Pedal-Set-Low-Cost-SKU28646.html+m, Many thanks !I will order that !I must admit that if I am able to build this one properly, I will for sure build some other pedals. Hi,I'm stuck and can't find the solution so hope you can help me out.I finished the board but as soon as I plug in the guitar at the jack input, no sound. So, this is my first build. Low noise and the tones even through a 40 year old transistor amp are pretty amazing. :o). It switches the circuit in bypass but the led goes off and start to light again in bypass? clean boost, full range to treble, light fuzzy tones). I think that I will finally order everything at Banzaimusic, included some basic tools I need to begin (solder iron, desoldering pump, ). so maby its the jfet what do you guys think. After that it disapear. The reason I ask is because sometimes this just happens. the OKKO basstard would be a great one too. hey! Strange as the previous two I made never did it and I've remade it three times today with the same outcome. Turn all the electrolytics around and swap the 9V and ground wires so you have positive to ground. Very nice pedal ! The results were as expected higher hfe gave a little bit more break up, lower hfe just stayed clean, and that was only when using a 2k heat potAm I correct in assuming that this is basically a rather powerful booster with the ability to change the tonal 'colour' Sounds prety good though, slams the front end of a driven amp pretty nicely and could be nice for adding a second voice to clean channel, maybe as a clean lift for solos? I have the same problem as beedoola: constant noise when the pedal is on, doesn't matter where the knobs are at.However, when I use a battery the noise disappears.My other pedals don't get noisy whatsoever when I use the dc jack.Could it be the filter cap? It was the closest thing I had. I read somewhere today, fsb I think, that this bad boy is part of the Galileo circuit, do you know if that's right mate? another thing I was looking at ceramic caps. Yes I think it's this and a CB30, but don't know if there are any value mods or anything so I'm waiting for a schematic. Yes, it was etched with ferric chlorid (PNP blue mask). I think that the 40u and 47u have to be polarized type, but I am not sure for voltage (16V, 35V, ???? very nice little booster :) . Post the voltages you're getting between the transistor pins and ground, and a close up front and back pic of the board. I just did this one. In theory, should that JFET work in it? Works as a good "May" boost with the range cranked and can get a little dirty if need be. Sounds great now! A super useful tweaked classic. First 2222a sounded like crap , luckily I had a spare and now it works as it should.It'll be staying on my board for now at least .I'll be using it to push my plexi drive and ecstasy clones. Am I limiting the range pot by using a 56k instead of the 68k it says?
Can anyone verify that the link Ivlark posted fixes this? Very sloppy..(sorry) but this is with mesa gear in full "v" on the eq. I just finished this. At least, mine as no consistent noise floor. Make sure you have the LED orientation correct. They might ship, even though they have no online store. I like the small ones, they only take 5 minutes, and I bet it isn't much longer than that until someone verifies it! Then I understand I can use a pnp oc45.But how would that work., Can I daisy chain or do I need isolated PSU?I mean aren't the red rooster pnp? After you've built two or three you have basic touch of what you want to use tooI'd suggest you get at lest 10 or 20 of each component, as you're going to need them eventually :)+m. You can make one with a few alligator clips, your guitar cable, and a 10nf (or close to) cap. But I think is normal. Any missing things? I try to bread boarding it last night and it sounds pretty good!except the range pot sounded strange before 12 o'clock, It sounds like some gated fuzz.I replace 40uf with 47uf and the rest are the same value as the layout, and try a few different transistors but they all act the same.I'm pretty new in building pedals, wondering what could be wrong, Another successful build of this layout over here. For "better" ones, i have 0,25 wire - and for supermojokillyouall wire i have solid core that is pretty close to 0,25.So you can't go wrong in any way. I've emailed you about this mate but though I'd post it here to in case anyone else would have an ideaI'm having a really strange issue with the Naga Viper boost. And now, no sound at all. Those are really nice.Making a detailed list of components is a bit redundant, as most of the builders hoard components as bigger batches from ebay and have their own preferences what they want to use. !Thank you. Hello. perhaps its my transistor? When I was doing it I noticed about 5 older layouts that I knew had been verified but not updated so I changed them which gave us an extra boost. My enclosure is etched, which was not easy at first try, but it looks pretty cool ! Hi!!! Even with the boost knob off, I still have some noise that is consistent No. HelloI have just finished the assembly of "naga viper". and two small samples with the pedal (two different settings ; original sound at the beginning of each samples, then with naga viper. I've tried replacing the 47u with a 100u (highest value I have) and my caps are rated at 25v so I'm lost as to what is causing it. as soon as I increase the voltage the oscillation gets deeper the higher the voltage goes. I spent a little time with it last night and (think) and found a few bugs, but it's still not working correctly. Otherwise, as I also read that the "heat" control is quite effective, do you think that the pedal "as is" can be used for Brian May tones?Many thanks for your answers ;-). Alu has been polished with a miracle product used also for polishing motorcycle parts. corrected !It was the led orientation.
!I am very happy. :o), Leave the range as it is. It is possible to reach very good results with minimal work ! great stuff, thanks again. I'm using a 2.2M resistor on the circuit IN to ground with no luck - I had popping prior to installing the resistor. Now you have two 80uf caps. could be facing the wrong way, also check the pinout of it in some datasheets! Thanks, I did did check out the link just wanted to see if I could get a verification before I started tearing things apart. That does it. hello everybody have a couple of quick questions if anybody is up for it. Whenever I stack a pedal after it, I lose almost all of the signal.Thank you. You could also try a low value base/collector resistor like 100pF, similar to what DAM do with some of their effects. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on, Dimitri's build blog, recommended reading for anyone wanting a DIY walkthrough, Parasitstudio.se - Freppo's blog Parasit Studio. There are a couple in there that have been on my to-build folder for a whileI bet you can't slow it down to only 10 per month :D+m. But when I looked at 2n2222a it said npn? (May I ask an SDD3000 / SDD3KP Veroboard layout ?? Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. Easy to build and a great sounding boost! Plus Heat and Boost are in reverse. Hi. my bad the one I was looking at was called pn2222a. That said, I am getting limited functionality from the pedal; the volume does cut the signal but doesn't really boost much, the gain is so minimal, it doesn't add much at all to the amps gain. The potmeters seem to work, very noisy however and there's a big hum. )Many thanks in advance for your help, Check my component guide:http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/p/components.htmlGenerally everything in 16V and up is ok. You might want to check the selection at taydaelectronics.com :)+m, Many thanks. Now, I will probably try to build myself an FA-1 (U2 fan). Powered through a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.One of my few successes with Vero board. pictures available, if i know where to post them. have you tried flipping the transistor? I am a total beginner, and it is not easy for me to choose the components. After my second try, I got it functional. I get a constant oscillation (signal is passing through). please don't leave us bass players behind ;-). Im sure that supply works good because I tried other pedals at 18V.I found, just today, a pair of interessant links it seems to be the problem of the original pedal!At 18v it has got more gain and its a little hotter but the hum increase. anyway, thanks for the layout, mark. Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. issues. Unity level (pedal on/off comparison) is at about 10-11 o'clockMy pedal has also a strong "pop" when I switch the first time the pedal on. Would the pnp oc45 work? Nevermind, tis a strange one snip it and bin it! They have 40uf polarized caps that look like tantalum for $1. It seems that it is also "normal". Pretty cool as a booster for solos that need a bit more of whatever it needs or just a tone tweaker. The 200th verified layout was less than 2 months ago though so we could hit the 300 well before Christmas at that rate. Although the schem at FSB is what it is, it seems to me like the 220K should connect 9V rail to the base and not collector.. Is this correct, or am I missing something?Thanks! And one group was called 0805 and the other one 1205 or something what's the differece?
I've had a really close look at the build for any faults or wrong componets, double checked solder joints and tried substituting transistors and pot values. Gratz for your first build :)The led issue should be a wiring problem, just check connections, resistor and solder:1 4 72 5 83 6 9If you are using the right pole for example (7-8-9):7 -> Wire from - Led8 -> Wire from any ground9 -> Wired to 1 (but not mandatory)Then wire from +Led to a 2k resistor and finally to +9volts.Very simple, but it's always a rush in first builds.Take it easy and gratz again. Two things: When I turn up the range I get a huge volume drop. Which OD/dist-pedal works great with a Naga Viper in front. Hello!What other transistors could be used in place of the 2N2222A on this circuit?Thanks! After three shots at soldering and hooking up everything as cleanly as possible, I have a finished product that is fairly quiet and operational. Not bad bit nasily and thin for me. So glad I picked this one. On my third build and could be that I missed something. The sound kind of reminds me of a Marshall Super Bass, warm and gritty. super fast build this one! Will experiment some more. Yes the 50 was a lot quicker than I expected, although I just added an "Unverified" tag and link over to the right so people could filter to see only the unverified layouts too. More silicon FFs and Tonebenders! but compared to my DAM Red Rooster it sounds really weak. I am a little afraid about what I have read about toll taxes, DHL costs . For a first try, I will stay "conservative"Tahnks in advance for your answering regarding wire. If you've got a 180K resistor, swapping that for the 220K would keep the ratio the same, and so the bias voltage would be the same as well. Copyright 2010-14, tagboardeffects.
I've seen other layouts that use a B100K pot for the caps. Is the original do this? So, I tried my assembly with a 9V battery : no parasitic noise anymore, and a pedal that functions well.Then, I tried with an old Boss electric power (PSA-230G), once again, the pedal was working well.I did this assembly in a box 1590A, I will send later a link to show a picture of it.I enjoy my new pedal, it sounds great !Thank you for all the work of creating the layout.
I'm using 0,14 wire that i bought from banzai in 100m rolls for basic builds. . That's another thing you want to check.All else fails, audio probe it. and the board/pots. As I turn the boost down the hum goes comletely away until the last bit of turning it down where it comes completely back.Heat seems to also make the hum go away as I turn it down.I don't seem to have any cold joints so I'm at a loss Hello .Many thanks for this Veroboard and comments. i used a 47uF instead. Succesfully built this one! . When I use it, I have the sound of the guitar but I also have a noise like a buzzing bee.I need some help ! I'm getting some pretty massive boost and a good drive style desperation but there is a problem is buzz/hum weirdness.It seems the buzz interacts with both the boost and heat. But I still don't get the whole npn, pnp thing. Do I need to link the pot logs (Range 2&3 or Heat 1&2) or do I need to grab a cable and take cable to both logs in the pots? But they have plenty. Ahh ok I might try swapping the 3n3, It's probably meant to be thin like Brian Mays nasal tone. But theres an issue. Longer leg is +.+m. i've already wired a 2M resistor across the input lug and ground on the switch. I've made two of these now, and I had a chance to substitute some other transistors. Or did I look at the wrong 2n222a?
I'm planning to leave for summerhouse for the rest of the week tomorrow, so this day was marked as "build like a maniac" -day.. :) Tomorrow i'm going to wait for the mail and head out after that. i swaped all the el.cap still the same problemok thanks. I've experimented with that cap in this kind of circuit in the past and the difference between 47u and 33u wasn't massive so I suspect either will be fine. I have found that if you want the sound of a certain pedal. Just made this. It will be a great help for beginners, and will give an idea of the component price for the pedal)R1 / 8K2 / A-2337R2 / 68K / A-2334R3 / 220K / A-2339R4 / 2K2 / A-2341 (for led)C1 / 47p / A-527C2 / 3n3 / A-414C3 / 68n / A-707C4 / 1n / A-557C5 / 10n / A-559C6 / 40u / same as C7 ? Circuit is working fine, strange thing is that my millennium bypass switch behaves strangely with this one? and besides, bass effects usually work great on guitar too. It boosts perfectly my AC30 (liverpool tech 21 clone)and my VHT special 6. But the "heat" pot is acting more like a volume knob- i seem to remember the heat knob having the capability to provide the circuit with quite a bit of it's own distortion like you could use it as an overdrive pedal on its own. Went throught the usual suspects to no avail, then i dug up the schem, and found the resistor..I was supposed to have nice quiet evening and build just one already verified board :)Huge Congrats for 250!!!! Hello, After reading every comments, I noticed that Vince had a similar problem, a parasitic noise. Check to make sure you didn't put the wrong value resistors/caps in somewhere.One time I had a problem with a rather expensive phaser build I did. :)BTW, i used 33 + 10 (with both measuring under the rating) in parallel for the 40After fixing the resistor and reversing boost/Heat, it works. 'Of course that might just be 'snake oil' (if you'll excuse the pun!). I made this built a couple of months ago, but I want to tweak it a little bit.I used a 100n vs 68n cap and a 5.6n vs 3.3 cap to make it a little less thin, but I still find it a little spikey on the right half of the turn. Well, the board is. just built this one, it sounds really great! It remains when un plugging the guitar jack too. Galileo would be on the list, so as SD1, Tube screamer, Stuff for U2 music :))Let's see first this "simple one". A challenge you say?--- 15 minutes later ---I think i found a mistake.. Never seen this with other circuits?What might be causing this? I'll have another bash at it over the weekend. There is circuitry that will make the pop completely go away but it compromises the sound of this circuit which is a very raw circuit that relies on the interaction between it and your guitar and amp to do its magic. Keep em coming! That unverified tag is awesome thing! You could solve the "pop" by adding a pulldown resistor to the output,just put it between the output lug of the foot switch and the ground lugs. Newbie mistake :)))Otherwise, once again many thanks for your advices. How would I manipulate the caps.I am putting 2 into a 125B for high boost and low boost.This is the nicest littl treble/boost pedal yes. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter. That would be super useful for me.Am I right in thinking that the heat pot is wired so it's just a variable resistor so even it was wired in the wrong way it would still function alright? Lot of talk regards to 40uf cap.What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. And they have Neautrik/Rean jacks for reasonable prices too. I intend to build this as my first pedal. Right now (after some flipping the 2N2222A) I get some sound but with huge hum and noise. What suggestions do you guys have?Thanks! Solid core wire, standard wire ? http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/jd_roost/IMAG1192-1Small.jpgNext to my Hwy 89. Hammering in the countryside is much better than here in the city. I was thinking of changing the heat pot to a 20k, but if someone could recommend swapping out some components to get more life out of this pedal?thanks so much in anticipation for your help.Cheers guys! Thanks. What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. Sweet, might just have to check this one out buddy, thanks! I built mine with a 2N4401.
Hey guys,This was my first build from this page. :0), Any chance that 40K elec can be subbed with a 47? Thanks. Hello .I have completed my first pedal, and it works !! I've also added a 1M anti-pop resistor. You can see if that is the cause by disconnecting the LED and seeing if you're still experiencing the popping. ;o). What kind of wire is recommended ? If you're planning on build just one or two (believe me, it won't stay that way), banzai and musikding have kits with all the stuff needed for boxing:http://www.banzaimusic.com/Effects-Pedal-Set-Low-Cost-SKU28646.html+m, Many thanks !I will order that !I must admit that if I am able to build this one properly, I will for sure build some other pedals. Hi,I'm stuck and can't find the solution so hope you can help me out.I finished the board but as soon as I plug in the guitar at the jack input, no sound. So, this is my first build. Low noise and the tones even through a 40 year old transistor amp are pretty amazing. :o). It switches the circuit in bypass but the led goes off and start to light again in bypass? clean boost, full range to treble, light fuzzy tones). I think that I will finally order everything at Banzaimusic, included some basic tools I need to begin (solder iron, desoldering pump, ). so maby its the jfet what do you guys think. After that it disapear. The reason I ask is because sometimes this just happens. the OKKO basstard would be a great one too. hey! Strange as the previous two I made never did it and I've remade it three times today with the same outcome. Turn all the electrolytics around and swap the 9V and ground wires so you have positive to ground. Very nice pedal ! The results were as expected higher hfe gave a little bit more break up, lower hfe just stayed clean, and that was only when using a 2k heat potAm I correct in assuming that this is basically a rather powerful booster with the ability to change the tonal 'colour' Sounds prety good though, slams the front end of a driven amp pretty nicely and could be nice for adding a second voice to clean channel, maybe as a clean lift for solos? I have the same problem as beedoola: constant noise when the pedal is on, doesn't matter where the knobs are at.However, when I use a battery the noise disappears.My other pedals don't get noisy whatsoever when I use the dc jack.Could it be the filter cap? It was the closest thing I had. I read somewhere today, fsb I think, that this bad boy is part of the Galileo circuit, do you know if that's right mate? another thing I was looking at ceramic caps. Yes I think it's this and a CB30, but don't know if there are any value mods or anything so I'm waiting for a schematic. Yes, it was etched with ferric chlorid (PNP blue mask). I think that the 40u and 47u have to be polarized type, but I am not sure for voltage (16V, 35V, ???? very nice little booster :) . Post the voltages you're getting between the transistor pins and ground, and a close up front and back pic of the board. I just did this one. In theory, should that JFET work in it? Works as a good "May" boost with the range cranked and can get a little dirty if need be. Sounds great now! A super useful tweaked classic. First 2222a sounded like crap , luckily I had a spare and now it works as it should.It'll be staying on my board for now at least .I'll be using it to push my plexi drive and ecstasy clones. Am I limiting the range pot by using a 56k instead of the 68k it says?
Can anyone verify that the link Ivlark posted fixes this? Very sloppy..(sorry) but this is with mesa gear in full "v" on the eq. I just finished this. At least, mine as no consistent noise floor. Make sure you have the LED orientation correct. They might ship, even though they have no online store. I like the small ones, they only take 5 minutes, and I bet it isn't much longer than that until someone verifies it! Then I understand I can use a pnp oc45.But how would that work., Can I daisy chain or do I need isolated PSU?I mean aren't the red rooster pnp? After you've built two or three you have basic touch of what you want to use tooI'd suggest you get at lest 10 or 20 of each component, as you're going to need them eventually :)+m. You can make one with a few alligator clips, your guitar cable, and a 10nf (or close to) cap. But I think is normal. Any missing things? I try to bread boarding it last night and it sounds pretty good!except the range pot sounded strange before 12 o'clock, It sounds like some gated fuzz.I replace 40uf with 47uf and the rest are the same value as the layout, and try a few different transistors but they all act the same.I'm pretty new in building pedals, wondering what could be wrong, Another successful build of this layout over here. For "better" ones, i have 0,25 wire - and for supermojokillyouall wire i have solid core that is pretty close to 0,25.So you can't go wrong in any way. I've emailed you about this mate but though I'd post it here to in case anyone else would have an ideaI'm having a really strange issue with the Naga Viper boost. And now, no sound at all. Those are really nice.Making a detailed list of components is a bit redundant, as most of the builders hoard components as bigger batches from ebay and have their own preferences what they want to use. !Thank you. Hello. perhaps its my transistor? When I was doing it I noticed about 5 older layouts that I knew had been verified but not updated so I changed them which gave us an extra boost. My enclosure is etched, which was not easy at first try, but it looks pretty cool ! Hi!!! Even with the boost knob off, I still have some noise that is consistent No. HelloI have just finished the assembly of "naga viper". and two small samples with the pedal (two different settings ; original sound at the beginning of each samples, then with naga viper. I've tried replacing the 47u with a 100u (highest value I have) and my caps are rated at 25v so I'm lost as to what is causing it. as soon as I increase the voltage the oscillation gets deeper the higher the voltage goes. I spent a little time with it last night and (think) and found a few bugs, but it's still not working correctly. Otherwise, as I also read that the "heat" control is quite effective, do you think that the pedal "as is" can be used for Brian May tones?Many thanks for your answers ;-). Alu has been polished with a miracle product used also for polishing motorcycle parts. corrected !It was the led orientation.
!I am very happy. :o), Leave the range as it is. It is possible to reach very good results with minimal work ! great stuff, thanks again. I'm using a 2.2M resistor on the circuit IN to ground with no luck - I had popping prior to installing the resistor. Now you have two 80uf caps. could be facing the wrong way, also check the pinout of it in some datasheets! Thanks, I did did check out the link just wanted to see if I could get a verification before I started tearing things apart. That does it. hello everybody have a couple of quick questions if anybody is up for it. Whenever I stack a pedal after it, I lose almost all of the signal.Thank you. You could also try a low value base/collector resistor like 100pF, similar to what DAM do with some of their effects. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on, Dimitri's build blog, recommended reading for anyone wanting a DIY walkthrough, Parasitstudio.se - Freppo's blog Parasit Studio. There are a couple in there that have been on my to-build folder for a whileI bet you can't slow it down to only 10 per month :D+m. But when I looked at 2n2222a it said npn? (May I ask an SDD3000 / SDD3KP Veroboard layout ?? Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. Easy to build and a great sounding boost! Plus Heat and Boost are in reverse. Hi. my bad the one I was looking at was called pn2222a. That said, I am getting limited functionality from the pedal; the volume does cut the signal but doesn't really boost much, the gain is so minimal, it doesn't add much at all to the amps gain. The potmeters seem to work, very noisy however and there's a big hum. )Many thanks in advance for your help, Check my component guide:http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/p/components.htmlGenerally everything in 16V and up is ok. You might want to check the selection at taydaelectronics.com :)+m, Many thanks. Now, I will probably try to build myself an FA-1 (U2 fan). Powered through a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.One of my few successes with Vero board. pictures available, if i know where to post them. have you tried flipping the transistor? I am a total beginner, and it is not easy for me to choose the components. After my second try, I got it functional. I get a constant oscillation (signal is passing through). please don't leave us bass players behind ;-). Im sure that supply works good because I tried other pedals at 18V.I found, just today, a pair of interessant links it seems to be the problem of the original pedal!At 18v it has got more gain and its a little hotter but the hum increase. anyway, thanks for the layout, mark. Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. issues. Unity level (pedal on/off comparison) is at about 10-11 o'clockMy pedal has also a strong "pop" when I switch the first time the pedal on. Would the pnp oc45 work? Nevermind, tis a strange one snip it and bin it! They have 40uf polarized caps that look like tantalum for $1. It seems that it is also "normal". Pretty cool as a booster for solos that need a bit more of whatever it needs or just a tone tweaker. The 200th verified layout was less than 2 months ago though so we could hit the 300 well before Christmas at that rate. Although the schem at FSB is what it is, it seems to me like the 220K should connect 9V rail to the base and not collector.. Is this correct, or am I missing something?Thanks! And one group was called 0805 and the other one 1205 or something what's the differece?
I've had a really close look at the build for any faults or wrong componets, double checked solder joints and tried substituting transistors and pot values. Gratz for your first build :)The led issue should be a wiring problem, just check connections, resistor and solder:1 4 72 5 83 6 9If you are using the right pole for example (7-8-9):7 -> Wire from - Led8 -> Wire from any ground9 -> Wired to 1 (but not mandatory)Then wire from +Led to a 2k resistor and finally to +9volts.Very simple, but it's always a rush in first builds.Take it easy and gratz again. Two things: When I turn up the range I get a huge volume drop. Which OD/dist-pedal works great with a Naga Viper in front. Hello!What other transistors could be used in place of the 2N2222A on this circuit?Thanks! After three shots at soldering and hooking up everything as cleanly as possible, I have a finished product that is fairly quiet and operational. Not bad bit nasily and thin for me. So glad I picked this one. On my third build and could be that I missed something. The sound kind of reminds me of a Marshall Super Bass, warm and gritty. super fast build this one! Will experiment some more. Yes the 50 was a lot quicker than I expected, although I just added an "Unverified" tag and link over to the right so people could filter to see only the unverified layouts too. More silicon FFs and Tonebenders! but compared to my DAM Red Rooster it sounds really weak. I am a little afraid about what I have read about toll taxes, DHL costs . For a first try, I will stay "conservative"Tahnks in advance for your answering regarding wire. If you've got a 180K resistor, swapping that for the 220K would keep the ratio the same, and so the bias voltage would be the same as well. Copyright 2010-14, tagboardeffects.
I've seen other layouts that use a B100K pot for the caps. Is the original do this? So, I tried my assembly with a 9V battery : no parasitic noise anymore, and a pedal that functions well.Then, I tried with an old Boss electric power (PSA-230G), once again, the pedal was working well.I did this assembly in a box 1590A, I will send later a link to show a picture of it.I enjoy my new pedal, it sounds great !Thank you for all the work of creating the layout.