My plan for now was probably to buy all (or at least most) of the model color paints on one of these conversion charts. Even in a line of 220 colors, I don't find what I want so I still have to mix. The good thing about Vallejos Game Color range is that they work fairly well with airbrushes so much so that even a complete airbrushing novice like me can appreciate them. The likelihood is, as youre plummeting towards the ground, youll hit the Vallejo branch at least once, if not several times, on the way down. anyone else use Coat d'arms paints? Our affiliates are shown in the sidebar on the homepage. After having to thin progressively more and more each time I used them, it became easier just to drop 2 coats of Vallejo and not have to pray for the right consistency. Seems to work very well for me. Overall, model colors seem to be the most popular among the painters I've talked to. I've decided (for various reasons) to go with Vallejo paints. Mostly high-level stuff, but still informative. The Reaper flesh tones are very nice. I wish I had. I then had a go with another WePrintMiniatures figure: Salome. The sets are discounted at Fantization by more than $100 and it would cost less shipping than buying a dozen here and a dozen there. They always come out wrong. You can subscribe in the sidebar for RSS or by email below, (Sidebar is below the article on Mobile Devices). Way too much, in fact. If anyone has any thoughts or resources I'd appreciate it. Whilst Id recommend Citadels Base metallics to anyone, Id try to avoid their metallic Layer paints as far as I could. Game Color flesh tones are fine but nothing special IMO, they're a little gummy and weird to work with though. Don't do it. Model colors do not have the hard surface additive. They are spectacular layer paints and are ideal for blending. Chainmail silver drank the water up and thinned down beautifully, but Glorious Gold became a frustrating runny puddle on my wet palette. ( "Please" this is a family forum, the glove was for grip, o.k. Youll need to use the smallest amount of thinner you can, and then gradually add small, individual drops of red to get the consistency just right. I've read in a few places that Model Color lays down better but is perhaps less durable (but that issue is alleviated with a varnish). That would bring the price closer to $2.60 a bottle. Only you will know when you have enough paints for your purposes. In general, I prefer Vallejo Model Colour because they are flatter than most of the other paints out there. These days I still have a few dozen GW paints and just picked up their new washes after hearing so much good stuff about them, still have the full Game Color but have also added about half the P3 range and plan on picking up the other half in time. The first is making sure youve got a little elbow grease spare the paints require a lot of shaking to get them to mix to the correct consistency. I want to start painting miniatures - haven't done it in a long time (~15 years) so I'm starting over supply-wise. Can't comment on the difference between alchohol based and acylic metalics. Restore formatting, Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? It will take off the stray bits, but also the color underneath. Besides the difference in colors there's also a different binding agent in them. I would use whatever works, I tried Vallejo a long time ago & was not sold on them so use a mixture of Miniature Paints, GW mostly metallics, Foundry which are a lot like GW, & Tamyia especially the Gloss medium & smoke. Not asking what colour scheme - that ones my problem. 0, Please Note: This site uses affiliate links. Also, when I eventually decide on colours (bloody hard to decide, once I choose a colour then I have to pick one of a dozen or more shades! Its a case of trial and error across the whole range so youll have to put the legwork in testing the correct mixes of paint and thinner for your airbrush, but once you get a knack for them, using the Game Color range through an airbrush will save you heaps of time. ), am I typically better off getting 3 or so shades along the one colour for the shadows / highlighting? I use a mix, and base my choices on what I know works. I do use a lot of colors, but not 220. it was Dry! If you want to go "all in" - which if you really like the hobby I'd recommend, pick up one or more sets of paint (and I'd highly recommend an airbrush setup for ~$150). Wanting to set foot out of your painting comfort zone? If you get the opportunity to try them out, make sure you do so. I'm just having a hard time deciding what paints to get for them. Which range you choose does largely boil down to what colours you need. There are some really lovely browns in the range too, as you can see on the boats, gloves, chest armour and hat on the figure above. You wouldnt know the difference between those paints on his armour and robes and their Citadel counterparts. This actually caused me a few issues, as the amount of water you need to thin these down to their optimum consistency still actually varies within the range. With approaching 60 years in the business, thats the kind of name that comes with serious pedigree, and a great deal of experience. Anyone know the big difference between the 2 beside the label? The vast majority of the paints in the range go on as smooth as silk and work excellently with water. What do I use? VoltorRWH The reds in the Game OClour range strike me as being exceptionally watery, so getting them a good consistency for airbrushing is difficult. The only time I tried some Vallejo I found them too thin. Side Note - Bone White from the Game Colors line is also a great color. I've been painting for a couple of years now and have yet needed to buy a 2nd bottle of something I've run out of. It took me ages to get a decent level of opacity on the leprechauns head and the beak on the Lord-Imperatants cloak. Part of the time, I end up mixing a strange shade for something. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. A lot of my GW paints are now just scenery paint, lol. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. If you want advice on "essential" paints to cherry pick I can work up a list of that too from multiple Vallejo ranges as I have VGC, VMC, VGA, VMA and Liquid Gold (and GW, Army Painter, P3 and some others too). The browns seem to have the best consistencies: not only are they good and smooth, but they also react very well to being thinned with water and maintain a good spread of colour when applied to a figure. Can't wait to lay my hands on higher-quality paints in the fleshtone color range I love. If you don't get anything else, buy the Smoke. And like with most of this range, It also has a slightly glossy finish to it, which you can make out on the Leprechauns hat and boots in the image above. For instance, the VGC white doesn't cover as well as GW Skull White in my experience. edit 2: If you want some painting tutorial resources I can dig some up. Lovely stuff for aging metal. I'm going to agree and disagree with Whiz. I'm no where near as critical of Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) as /u/redpiano was - they have their flaws which largely boil down to "some need to be stirred rather than just shaken", but are great other than that. Because the paints are that much thinner, youll find yourself having to apply more layers than you might be used to in order to build up a good, solid colour on a figure. You can post now and register later. What did you think of this Review? The greens are good and bad, jade green, scurvy green, goblin green, sick green, are great, so is turqoise, but their dark green is basically just a bottle of matte medium, it takes me a dozen coats to cover well with dark green and because of the thick gummy consistency of that particular paint, it doesn't thin down very well. Vallejos own Model Color paints fair much better in this area. I prefer the Game Colour range, just because I like the brighter colours. I use both model and game color. They have the finest metalic grain I've seen in a model paint. I like the Game Color for its thinner consistency and its bright color range (it pretty much matches up 1:1 with GW's line). You cannot paste images directly. Again, this applies double to the reds, oranges and yellows. Thanks for all that. These will be used on gaming minis - think games like Blood Rage, Zombicide, Kingdom Death, Reaper Bones, Specter Ops, Wrath of Kings, etc. I'm especially interested in the various flesh tones: Dead Flesh vs Deck Tan, Dwarf Flesh vs Dark Rose, Bronze Flesh vs Dark Flesh, Filthy Brown vs Medium Flesh, etc. As such, be prepared to take some time and care thinning these down appropriately in order to ensure you can apply an even and consistent coat across your miniatures. I've run out of fingers to count how many years I have been (trying) to paint miniatures, and recently decided that I wanted to devote more time to this passion and try the Vallejo range of acrylics. Youve got the consistency of the Vallejo Game Color paints right and they go on beautifully but that can sometimes be a little more of a battle than you may first assume it will be. Where did you hear that? Others are not only extremely watery, they separate in their bottles very quickly. 2005-2022 WYRD MINIATURES, LLC My FLGS sells Vallejo for $3.30 a bottle. Also the occassinoal GW (still working through them but moving to vallejo as they run out), and a pot or two of P3. I find it makes the models pop a bit more on the table. They're also much more forgiving if you're not experienced with thinning your paints (with your 15 year break) as they come pre-thinned for airbrush use and can usually be used straight form the bottle with good results, although you'll often want to thin them a little still. Vallejo have been making paints since 1965 originally for cartoons in a time before animation or computers. Completely agree. First, I tried Goblin Green and Escorpena Green on a WePrintMiniatures Leprechaun on Pogo Stick. Theres absolutely nothing wrong with this whatsoever, Citadel make great stuff. Same here, I use a mix of the two. If I were doing Perdita I would use something like Cold Grey and Regal Blue for jeans, bloody red and white for a pink shirt, and bonewhite and some sort of brown for her hat. Really? The main issue with Game Color is that they are incredibly inconsistent, not only in how they look dried, but in terms of the coverage of the paint, the actual consistency of each individual liquid, it's absurd really.. I look forward to posting/sharing ideas and hope I can repay any advice with some ramblings of my own, ( You've all now seen that I can ramble What was the topic again ? This is most noticeable with the brightest colours. Primarily, how accurate is this color conversion chart? In spite of knowing this, in a moment of madness, I decided to have a go at some OSL on one of the figures I was testing with I couldnt look at the fireball in her hand and not feel as if there should be some light on her. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through ; p. edit: Here's a shot of my paint collection from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. Re: Vallejo Model color vs Game color paints. CapnBloodbeard, January 17, 2012 in Malifaux Discussion. GoldenSkeleton, Their black here is a much more blue-black than, say, Citadels Abaddon Black as an example. You know, that point in your hobby life where you know the Citadel range inside and out. Do you feel like there really isn't a noticeable difference in color between a VMC and VGC paint on the same line of the Dakka conversion chart? Again, the blues Imperial Blue, Magic Blue and Electric Blue were excellent, and could go toe-to-toe with their Citadel equivalents. Game Color's Elf Flesh is a nice base for a very pale skinned person. Vallejo's whites also tend to be too chalky to get a nice finish, so I use Skull White and Bleached Bone as my only non-Foundation Citadel paints. Model colors are a thinner consistancy (not that this makes much of a difference since they still need to be thinned), and still have decent pigment for most if not all colors. I'll probably start with a set of 16 game colour paints (modified from the basic set). The durability you mention is a non issue - the only durability "problem" with Vallejo is their airbrush primers which need to sit for 24 hours before painting over them, and even then they don't have the "bite" of rattle can primers - but it's perfectly fine if you paint over them and then varnish, just not to play with them only primed as it will eventually start chipping off with use. This gives you greater control over where to apply it, and how much (or little) to apply, allowing you to take off one color at a time all the way to the primer. There are written guides but youtube is where it's at for painting tutorials. When Game Color saw the light, they were intended to be used directly from the bottles, without needing to add water. Hmmm, Model colour does have a tendency to rub off before you have time to seal it. I haven't had any trouble replicating muted, earthy tones when I've needed to. Before we get started, there a few things to be aware of with Vallejos Game Color range. The reds are decent, gory red is a nice dark red, bloody red is basically orange though. I myself love the browns and the blues and even rather like the greys and whites in this range, but would quite happily never touch the yellows ever again. If you are used to Citadels, go with the Game Colors. Wonder how he does it? I've seen lots of article/videos where people compare Vallejo to other brands, but not much in comparison between the different Vallejo lines, especially with colors that are "equivalent". And I certainly don't use the metallics. A community for painting miniatures and models. I think it comes down to the amount of pigment in the colour. Note you will need only an extremely small amount of Vallejos own airbrush thinner to get the regular paints to pass through an airbrush with very little trouble. Thanks for all that. The red did not go on as well. Also, I feel Game Color can preserve brush strokes while Model Color doesn't. First off, Model colors were developed for the Historical Modeling crowd, while Game colors were made for, well, gamers. Or just looking for something new to try? They also have a wider range including some great muted colors. There are a couple in this range that do take well to drybrushing and arguably with enough practise and time, all can be drybrushed fairly well. Learn how your comment data is processed. Bad Behavior has blocked 2078 access attempts in the last 7 days. I probably don't use half of mine on a regular basis, either. 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