Turn the half-built box upside down and apply glue to the surfaces of the "H" that point upwards now. Step 82: Drill Into, But NOT Through the Wood.
PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter.Please also note: I modeled the adaptors in 2mm-steps because a 38mm-adaptor will also work for a 37mm-hose, so if you measure an odd number on your hose, just print the version that is next in size. For those smaller shafts you should also just drill a 10mm-hole (otherwise you have to wind some tape around them, when attaching them). Do not flip them lengthwise or you will run into problems. We start with the micro-filter-fabric: Get out the compass a draw a 132mm-circle on it. The Hex-bolts should all be threaded across the whole shank: (4x) M8 hex-bolts, 60 mm long; It can be difficult to find fully threaded M8 bolts in that size. TOP OUTSIDE: Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. Those would require a special adaptor, but they seem to be not so common and I did not find one yet. Remove the wood from the inner hatched areas with the help of a saw and a small chisel. Put the rubber square in the printed turbine-gasket-holder (PP1001) and trace the hole in the middle on it. Stack the pieces on top of each other, make sure that the holes are aligned and pin the stack together. Get the power swich and attach the scavanged cable with the single cable-shoe to one of its terminals (it does not matter which) and connect the other terminal to the power-cord's cable that also features a cable shoe. In the next steps we will mark the positions for those small screw-holes. 
Double thread means that two threads are running in parallel around the hose and if you follow one of the threads with your finger around the hose, you will notice with each turn that it looks as if you have skipped a thread, but that "skipped" thread is in fact the second thread that runs in next to the one you are tracing. Your browser (Internet Explorer) is out of date. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. ###. Thread the rope from above through the other handle-holder and make a knot in the other end. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. Repeat the previous step 5 times, so you have six rear shock aborbers in total. The rounder you make them, the more comfortable the handle will be in your hand later on. ###. Now the rubber parts are finished and we can move on to the next step. It requires some force to pull the needle through, so I used pliers to grab it. Though this tutorial might look a bit intimidating because it has so many steps, give it a second glance: Yes it is long, but that is because there are no skipped steps and every task is explained in detail. The knots of the thread can later rest in the small pockets of the printed turbine-gasket-holder (PP1001). . Under this link you find all parts you need to print for this project, This line-drawing is a helpful reference to find the correct part when building the vacuum cleaner, To find such a module online, try keywords like.
If they don't fit, tweak them a bit. Cut off two pieces of rope, each 120cm long.
Lock the power-switch in place by sliding in PP19, 5.) REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks per board. Attach (2x) "PP10_Handle_Holder" with four screws and washers each.
For that reason I found that it works best to cut it open at its peak. Slide PP20 into PP14, so that it sticks out on the other side.
Rub some extra glue on the areas where the foil ends to seal them. In your case it might look a bit different, but that's fine. Why buying an expensive cyclone vacuum cleaner when you can build yourself one? Now trace the four screw holes with a pencil. Here are some examples: PP02-s38 fits a single spiral (s) hose with a 38mm-diameter. For the next steps we do not need the two slender pieces so you can put them aside. From the coarser motor-filter-fabric we make two more circular filters: One is 125mm and the last filter is quite tiny with just 24mm.
You can of course also look for another drawstring-bag-tutorial and follow that one I just did a quick search and there might be better ones. slide (4x) "PP1004_Clip-for-M8-screws" on the M8 nuts. Drill (2x) 8mm-holes where you made a 8mm-mark before. We do not want to tighten them too much though. Two of the screw holes lie on the vertical mark. If you do not have a 40mm-drill, you can carefully cut those holes out with a jigsaw instead (like in the next step). Attach "PP14_Electronics-Compartment_Upper-Part" with 4 screws and washers. BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE / LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a vertical line per board. Now attach the power cord under the box with (2x) "PP05_Cable-Clamp" and two screws & washers each. The next step is to attach the handle and because the design changed after I took the photos for the tutorial, I decided to redo and take photos of the remaining steps with the new handle. This project turns that trash into a resource: Tenok is a DIY vacuum cleaner that can be equipped with any used vacuum cleaner motor and hose! For this project that works better than listing them here. By now I am quite confident that the gaskets can last very long, but the indicated screw holes do no harm so I kept them. Drill a 20mm-hole where you made a 20mm-mark before.
We need the NC-version because the switch shall let electricity through (=be closed) until it gets too warm and opens the circuit to stop the flow of electricity. Do not drill through the wood!
It does not matter, which cable goes where, but mounting is easier when the power cable that comes from the bottom is attached closer to the end of the part. Now it's time to close the electronics compartment: Hook the back of the lower part into the upper part and screw the front of the two parts together with the 15mm-M5-hex-bolt, two washers and a M5-Nut. Maybe helix is the correct word, but let's stay with spiral for simplicity. Attach "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" to the outside of the rear hatch with 6 screws and washers. I recommend to use no tools to tighten the nuts what you can achieve with the strength of your fingers should be good enough.
Now put the small filter we made earlier on top of the grid.
Repeat the previous steps with the remaining three inner parts of the motor holder and once all four inner parts are finished, slide them into the outer parts that are already screwed into the box. and also the scavenged power-switch and the power regulator module. Use two screws and washers to attach the heat-sensor-switch to the TOP-board of the motor chamber.
Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" with a screw and washer each.
Now you sort of extend the marks we made initially around the corner until they meet the long lines. The holes in the corners of the adaptor should approximately align with the holes in the rubber parts and holes in the celtic cross, Before we fix the motor-adaptor to the celtic-cross, check if it will align well with the mounting-holes in the back of the motor. However I adjusted the dimensions for the final design that you are building). The guides on the outside of PP12 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. Now that everything is pressed together nicely you can open the bows, tighten the four threads that hold the rear-motor-holder together and make knots instead. An interactive particle accelerator which utilizes a inductively coupled RF ion source for beam-on-target fusion research. Naturally TOP-OUTSIDE should be on the outside of the box we are building. Wind the rope around the cord-pin (PP04) on top of the box.
Attach "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and (4x) rubber hatch-gasket-pieces to the front hatch with 8 screws and washers. Im a lapsed industrial designer. And we also put marks on the smallest surfaces of the pieces and connect them with the marks we made in the previous step.
Putting some scrap-wood between the clamp and the box avoids clamp marks. The power regulator controls the speed at wich the motor spins. You can use found vacuum-cleaner hoses with an outside diameter up to 50mm. Later the TOP-board will be screwed and glued on top of the wooden "H". The wood-screws should be dimensioned to be driven in 2mm-holes. Remove about 50mm of the power cords's outer sheathing and from each end of the piece you cut off, so that the inner cables are revealed. You need 18mm-thick boards that are big enough, so you can cut out the rectangular pieces you need (see coming steps for sizes). I also made a detailled tool list with pictures as part of the instructions. As we did earlier, drill some 2mm-holes into the wood where the lines meet. Step 179: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 2/2. (Maybe) access to the high vacuum environment for the rest of us, A pick n place machine to finish jigsaw puzzles, Using a vacuum and pressurized air to shoot ping pong balls. I.E. Now apply glue to one of the walls and press the foil against it. Use a compass or make a mark to drill (or cut) 40mm-holes in the center of those boards. Apply glue to the rear end surfaces of the box and press the foil on them.
It does not matter if the electric terminals come out of the bottom or the front both will fit.
Attach "PP12_Bag-coupling" to the inside of the front hatch with 4 screws and washers. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. His current website is here. While the box dries you can already make it some "feet.". There is nothing worse than starting to build something, just to realize that the instructions are insufficient that doesn't happen here. Align the printed part "PP06_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards.
In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the NAMES you write on them now. 30mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill (2x) 30mm-holes where you made a 30mm-mark before. Now that the big cables are in, we can soon install the funtional electric components. As we see in the diagram, the functional components are already complete, but the connection between them is not. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. Now pick up the piece we prepared in the previous step, carefully place it in the motor chamber and press it flat to the wall we just put glue on. Solder one cable shoe to one of the cables in the power-cord. Tenok - DIY Vacuum Cleaner Made From Trash! It would also have been too big for the photo. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the, like they were pages of a book so that you see the other, unmarked side of them. Associate Design Director, Industrial Design, How to Nail Perfect Lighting Set-Ups in Keyshot.
I bought two 80x25cm boards and one 100x20cm board and cut them further in a maker-space. Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. Now we hatch all the areas we want to remove (see pictures). Now pull the rubber a bit apart and slide "PP07_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Inner-Part" into PP06. For holding hundreds of your personal belongings. Cut the circle into strips, glue them to the side-walls of the circular hole and cut the tips. I know that this topic often feels alien and intimidating in tutorials, but don't worry, I made it quite easy to follow. I was born in NYC and figured Id die there, but a few years ago I abandoned New York to live on a farm in the countryside with my wife. Find the scavenged wire with a cable-shoe on each side and connect one of them to the terminal of the heat sensor switch that is still free. All files you need to print can be downloaded from Thingiverse via this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3710521.
Please also note: I modeled the adaptors in 2mm-steps because a 38mm-adaptor will also work for a 37mm-hose, so if you measure an odd number on your hose, just print the version that is next in size. The linked tutorial does not use an old scarf, but a towel instead, but close enough I would say. Remember that I wrote that I changed the handle design after I made the photos for this tutorial? Now you should again see the boards form a wooden "H", but with the unmarked side surfaces facing up.
REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. Attach the foil and press it flat with your palm or the bottom of the glue container. Step 162: Attach Front Hatch Gasket and PP11. "This is a real issue, as the manufacture of vacuum cleaners accounts for the second largest production of greenhouse gases among electrical products.". Take the bigger piece of aluminum foil and fold its 20mm wide pre-folded areas flat on the piece. PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter. It's purpose is to remove around 1 liter of smoke. Connect the remaining wire that comes from the box's central wall to one terminal of the motor (it does not matter to which). FRONT INSIDE: Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. The guides on the outside of PP23 need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Later you will need another small piece of wood (at least 130x20mm) to make the handle and while the grain direction is not important for the pieces we make in the current step, the handle needs to be grained in length, so try to save a 130mm long piece that is grained length-wise, Put the boards on the table in front of you as in the picture. Align the printed parts "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the boards. TOP INSIDE: Put the partly assembled electronics compartment on the board, and check the other side to align the interface carefully with the holes we drilled for it. If not: Find some heat-resistant (at least 90C) glue for this step. For that we need: Step 149: Prepare Inner Parts of the Frontal Motor Holders. A used hose is that hygienic to use? Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners. Align the printed part "PP01_Hose-Coupling_Base" with the marks on the board.
REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards.