Before glue up I rough sketched the outline onto the white oak. | Poltica de cookies | Todos los derechos reservados. The oil will have marked the spots where there is good contact with the plane body, and where you might need to remove a little material. Big? For the body, any hard, durable wood will work. Form the slight hollows [Drawing] using a card scraper or wide chisel until you see a thin line of light under a straightedge. Line G. Now transfer the "thick" upper end of the iron square across the top of the plane. Also, the cost of a Japanese plane is significantly less than a similarly sized Lie-Nielsen, which is a bit of a consideration. On the other hand, Ive been told that the Lie-Nielsen, in addition to being an excellent tool, is easier to set up and maintain. 
The combination of both is optimal. Therefore, the first step is to make the planes blade. Once I cracked a blade tapping it out and had to regrind the bevel, I started thinking about other options for future planes. I have not heard of anyone else making a blade by epoxy laminating available pieces of steel and am intrigued. Others will recommend the LV or the Clifton. First, remove and sharpen the blade. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. And I've bought several books and videos on planing that have helped me immensely. Most however, end up about 0.5 mm deep. I have no personal experience with either, except for Clifton's tiny (#400) shoulder plane -- it's superb! IMHO there is much more expertise available (here, in books, and in classes and clubs) to help one use a Western plane, so since I live here I chose the tools most often used here. And, not to get all mystic, but the Zen-like experience and satisfaction of seeing a paper-thin ribbon of wood float out from a tool you carefully tuned is surprisingly rewarding. .hide-if-no-js {
though it has only less than 300 members the knowledge is quite deep and people are very helpfull. The layout of the blade is set between 40-45 , they has a wide of 36-40 mm and a thickness of 4mm. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by. Mark on both sides of the stock the front part of the planes throat, where the shavings are cleared while planing. Each blade-maker uses a unique combination of forging techniques and metals that make his blades unique. You can always make it wider if you find you need too. Finally, the relatively light color of the wood makes sense, as it is easy to check the position of the dark plane iron because of the contrast between the two. Im getting started in woodworking, and am concentrating on hand tools and small projects first. With its basic, rectangular form, the traditional Japanese plane is representative of a lot of the aesthetic that informs traditional Japanese design. Be careful, the mouth will, under the cutting edge of the iron, be cut at a slant up toward the heel of the plane to form the throat and the bed. Darken the blade back with a soft pencil, then test the fit. When drawing these two lines, you must be very careful. You shouldn't be able to see any light between them at the cutting edge. Another consideration is what type of woodworking are you going to do, and what kind of wood do you expect to be using, in the main? Comparing a Japanese planer next to a Western planer. Many of them are made by hand from wood professionals, according to their needs and preferences.
You can now cut the throat of the plane. Although they are very sharp they don't have the heft to reduce chatter. Some very stable and beautiful wood might be obtained from flooring installers or dealers for the plane body, as well as for other projects. On most smoothing planes, the sole contacts the wood at the toe of the plane and just in front of the mouth. This cut is 1/4 inch shorter of blade width on each side. Finally, flatten the back side of the front edge of the chip breaker and check the fit on the blade. The body of a Japanese plane is called a dai (pronounced "die").
If you like Japanese hand planes, in the next few days we will see the best brands of these beautiful tools , Filed Under: Woodworking Tagged With: craftsman, hand planes, joinery, tools, wood, woodworker, woodworking, Your email address will not be published. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building! The position is based on a 60/40 division of the length of the board, with 60% in front of the iron and 40% behind it. Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers. The chip breaker or sub-blade is not necessary for the plane, but I will add one for demonstration. With these planes, the iron is set at almost a right angle to the sole, similar to our toothing or scraper planes. In those areas, a strip of wood about 1 - 1.5 cm is left in place and the rest of the sole is planed or scraped away slightly, to about the thickness of a piece of paper. <
Have a look at this video of our customer BergWerk how he made a DAI. The plane is made of either Japanese red or white oak, while the blade is a lamination of hard iron to softer iron. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building. That said, if you're a guy who likes to chart his own course and is willing to work a little harder to get the information you need, there's no doubt that equivalently great work can be done with either set of tools. Now is time the square the body by planing the sides, top and bottom. Keep repeating this process, removing the high spots in the throat until the cutting edge of the blade drops to within a couple of millimeters above the mouth opening. Did you make this project? Now draw a line to mark the beveled back of the iron on the side of the plane body. Each product we feature has been independently selected and reviewed by our editorial team. Japanese plane makers mark the angle with a traditional graduated carpenters square, but you can also use a sliding bevel and protractor. Mark the position of the mouth on the under side, or sole, of the board you are going to use for the stock. Line C. Transfer the lines from Line C across the sole of the plane. Nicely executed. I am making a high angle plane at 65 degrees, although the normal blade angle is around 45 degrees. This will make it easier to drill and pare this part, Line K. This line ends exactly on the end of Line C where it ends at the sole. In-depth articles, up-close photography, and detailed illustrations. Instead I sawed the body blank in half with a hand saw and sketched a final dimensions(pic #2). Line A. The thick end is 5/16" and the thin end is 3/16". 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Remember to not burn the hard metal. I guess it might be because any shrinkage would be less likely to cause warping in the base plane? Another pro or con is that a blade will outlast the body or dai as it is called so in time you buy another dai and fit the blade to it. If you have large hands a wider dai may be more comfortable when flattening a board, I find my fingers dragging when using a thinner dai. Lay the body on its side and mark the angle of the planes iron. It wasnt easy to find Japanese hand planes. We finished our post here. 8 years ago We shadowed two experienced makers and installers of custom cabinetry to bring you simple tips and tricks that will keep your built-in projects (and your sanity) on the bubble.. Planes came into use in Japan much later than in Europe, sometime around the year 1500. This hollow spot is called the "shakumi" and because they are hand made, different with every iron smith and even every individual iron. 1 Using is more interesting than having. After shaping, I used J.B. Weld to hold the three layers of metal together. Derechos: Podrs ejercer tus derechos de acceso, rectificacin, limitacin y suprimir los datos en este formulario as como el derecho a presentar una reclamacin ante una autoridad de control. The time you dedicate to learning how to finesse a plane for ultimate performance will be rewarded. on Introduction.
Space on each side of the blade permits lateral adjustment to keep the cutting edge parallel to the sole. I can see why the need for really stable timber is a good position to work from on the plane. Placing the blade on the Japanese planer. Also, the other items I have (workbench, vises, etc.) Then you must spend a lot of time and effort to fit infills to firm up the irons bedding. That being said the Lie Neilsen planes are a joy to use and other than a little bit of sharpening they are ready to go right out of the box. It should be straight-grained and tension-free, and should have been allowed to season at least two years. As with sharpening any blade, flatten and polish the back before focusing on the bevel. This stresses the dai as it will be during use, so check the bottom of the dai for flatness using a straightedge. For fine adjustments when fitting the iron to its bed, you pass the the iron over an oil-soaked pad. A longer sole ahead of the blade helps steady the plane on the workpiece at the start of the stroke.
we could use the inherant properties of the wood to both hole the plane square in the long term and stabilise the wood and to boot use much cheaper timber. Our biweekly podcast allows editors, authors, and special guests to answer your woodworking questions and connect with the online woodworking community. The wood must be chosen with special care. You want a smooth edge and polished surface so shavings slide up and out of the throat, but the edge doesn't need to be razor sharp. Finally, set the depth and lateral position of the cutting edge with light taps on the blade [Photo H]. How is the blade holding up? Even so, the intention of these centenarian tools is to face any task of general brushing and smoothing. The ideal plane for rabbeting, panel raising and trimming tenons. Reply The are many ways the cut out the blade's bed. It is possible that as the wood dries over the years, the sole of the plane can become slightly hollowed. However, the plane functions fine and is holding up. Beautiful work.thanks for sharing.
Awesome project. 5 years ago. We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. Their simple design, without mechanical blade adjusters, has changed little over hundreds of years. Then tap the chip breaker firmly in place before planing.
You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? To do this we will use the corresponding Western hand planes. A Japanese hand plane is also known as a Kanna. Until that time, surfaces were smoothed with the so-called spear planes, called yari ganna. The bottom should be perfectly flat at this stage like picture #4.
If the lines are not accurate, the rabbet in the cheeks of the stock to take the edges of the iron of the plane could be too wide, and the iron will be loose in the stock and the plane cannot be used. With the eastern, we refer to Japanese hand planes, some fabulous tools for woodworking. I recommend reading material over the kanna to fully understand the tool before building one.
File and smooth the chipbreaker so it sits flat on the blade without gaps at the cutting edge. The two narrow strips along the edges of the blade and the area directly behind the cutting edge form a flat reference surface. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. A steel or wood counter blade to avoid splinters, A nut to hold the blade and the counter blade. To reduce friction, the soles of traditional Japanese planes are planed slightly concave. Note: these directions were documented in the Inomoto workshop in Sanjo, Japan, which specializes in the production of smoothing planes. For example, the wedge-shaped blade tapers in thickness, which helps hold it in place. Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine. I used a vise to hold the blade and bent corners with a hammer. After cutting the mouth and the rabbet for the iron, this should allow the iron to bed solidly in the body. Reply It will absolutely work the way it's pointed out in the ible, but for some reason that I don't know, the Japanese plains are quarter sawn. Thus, these tools are for the final phase of furniture manufacture or wood structures. Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane). You have outstanding qualities in soft woods. If you make a purchase using the links included, we may earn commission. Line B. https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Ultimate-Colle 7 years ago Kashi wood is very strong and resists splitting, and so there are seldom problems with cracks or splinters in the body. Install the blade and chip breaker and adjust the depth until the blade nearly protrudes through the bottom of the dai. Beautiful project!! In fact, the only material I bought was the epoxy. With only basic woodworking skills, a tablesaw, and a few simple tools, you can make custom cabinets for your home or shop. Informacin adicional: En la Poltica de Privacidad de Labois encontrars informacin adicional sobre la recopilacin y el uso de su informacin personal por parte Labois, incluida informacin sobre acceso, conversacin, rectificacin, eliminacin, seguridad y otros temas. This forum post is now archived. So take the time to do it right and cut a perfectly-fitted bed to hold the iron properly.
The blacksmith stamps his mark on every plane blade. After a day to let the epoxy dry, I ground the blade to a 25 degree angle and honed it to a razors edge. My chip breaker is half the length of the blade and is made of soft metal. The measurements are available in pic #2. Converts from Western hand planes insist the steel in a Japanese plane provides a smoother finish on their work, with additional tactile feedback and an intimate connection with the workpiece. The blade differs from that on a Western plane in other ways, too. I have used both Japanese style and Western planes. The thick blade holds a super-sharp cutting edge, the hallmark of a Japanese hand plane [Photo C]. If the chip breaker rocks or "rattles" against the blade when applying pressure at the corners, file material from the point of the "ear" on the back where it contacts the blade [Photo G]. They left behind a smooth, but slightly wavy or grooved surface. Just glue a piece of thick paper to the blades bed. The flat face of the iron is placed on the Line B. If not, any issues with the blade shifting side to side or popping out of the wedge? 8 years ago I used a Ron Hock blade and you can use the same blade in any number of plane bodys as well as having fun using different woods to make your plane. For hardwood, an angle of 42 degrees is recommended. I use Japanese planes 80% of the time. You've also ignored a third alternative, wooden planes in the western style, which you might also want to look into. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. Now you need to take the iron, and measure, on the back side of the iron, how deep and wide the concave area is. The planes are mostly designed for, and work best on various kinds of softwoods. The "common plane" comes in different widths. There are special planes used for shaping the bottom of the plane, although I just use the planes blade at a 90 degree angle in a scraping motion. The blacksmith starts with a hard, but brittle, steel for the cutting edge. Heres how. I shaped the wedge before laminating with an angle grinder. It is then tapped into place with a hammer, and then knocked back out. The blade is around 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. Suzuki-ya 510-409-0217suzukitool.comHida Tool & Hardware Co. 510-524-3700hidatool.comWoodcraft 800-225-1153woodcraft.comPlane floats and rasps: Lee Valley 800-871-8158leevalley.com. I find that laminating idea quite fascinating and was wondering if you have any other examples of it being used. They are wonderful to use once set up, but I do not like the expense of the blades or dealing with sharpening the hard steel and tapping out the back. Because they look different than steel-body Western planes, Japanese hand planes (kanna) may seem like primitive mystery tools used only by esoteric craftsmen.
Ive been to the Japan Woodworker site, read the instructions on how to set up a plane, and it doesnt seem like something that is too far out of my skill level. The breaker is sharpened like the blade and is held in place by a rod, I used a nail. <>. Watch a video on how to set up a Japanese hand plane. The most common are the Kanna. When you purchase a new Japanese hand plane, you receive a kit of parts. >>. The flat bar is a cheap, soft metal which will make the wedge of the blade while the saw blade will add thickness between the soft and hard metal. And these can get real expensive. With these tools, achieving a truly flat surface first became possible. Please enable Strictly Necessary Cookies first so that we can save your preferences! If mainly soft woods, then Japanese planes make good sense; for hard wood, somewhat less good sense (this is not to say that Japanese planes won't work on hard woods -- they do -- just that they tend to be more oriented toward softer woods). The hand plane is the last tool they use to work the wood surface. Im still in the tool acquisition stage and need to get a plane (or three). How many degrees? Nowadays, it is easy to find this type of tool. The hollow reduces the surface area contacting the sharpening stone, making flattening the back of the blade easier before sharpening the bevel. Make test cuts and adjust the blade until you get full-width, onion-skin-thin shavings that leave a smooth surface. While the tradition of Western hand planes tended towards the technological improvement of the brush itself, the Japanese ones focused on improving the brushing technique. Since you're removing so little material, this process takes almost no time at all. The Japanese plane is unique because the bottom is not flat. The blade is comprised of a very thin layer of hard, high carbon steel forge welded to a large section of soft iron or soft, low carbon steel. Yes. I really appreciate the ingenuity and execution. But note: Japanese "block planes" differ from Western block planes, serving instead as small smoothing planes. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. The iron should be placed so that it projects only about 80% of the way through the body. My wife and I do a lot of cooking, and I have a lot of sharpening experience with kitchen knives, so setting up a plane is not completely scary for me.The way I see it, being a beginner, I can use the Lie-Nielsen as a backup if my Japanese plane experience doesn't work out, but if I go the Lie-Nielsen route up front, it will probably go so well that it may be a while before I actually get around to trying out a Japanese plane, in which case I'll have to either "unlearn" skills or at the least have to make a transition over to Japanese planes.Having said that, any recommendations for a good quality Japanese plane? this link is to an external site that may or may not meet accessibility guidelines. Unfinished garage becomes a woodworking haven. However, I have used some of LV's other tools; all quite good, and their customer service is superb, as is LN's. If you are going to be using mainly domestic hard woods, then Western style planes are probably a better bet. The Japanese planes are readily available to buy, although I just want to see if I can make one out of scraps of wood and metal laying around with minimal tools and effort.
They are usually set between 25 - 40 degrees, Hi, I've added your project to "The Ultimate Collection of DIY Workshop Tools" Collection. The two ends of the plane body, or dai, are named "atama" for the front, or toe, and "shiri" for the back, or heel. If the plane will be used as a smoothing plane, the slot between the iron and the front of the mouth should be kept as narrow as possible. Better-quality Japanese planes feature bladesand often chip breakersforged by highly skilled blacksmiths [Photo B]. You work much closer to the wood with the Japanese planes than with the Western styles. If it is possible, it is better to choose a hand plane with blue steel. I will be making a smoothing plane which is similar to a Stanley no. For a smoothing plane the bottom only touches the wood at the front of the plane and right before the blade(pic #5 and #6). These ones are also flat-sawn: http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/index.php?id=222. On planes like this one, with a chipbreaker fitted, the angle on the face of the throat away from the iron is about 80 degrees. Click for full details. Sight along the sole to judge the blade protrusion and parallelism to the sole. I'd stay away from a thin blade, like the type with the replaceable blades where you screw in a new blade on a non replaceable iron. Note: Since the plane cuts on the pull stroke, the front and back of the plane are opposite of Western planes. However, the set-up mechanics and specific goals differ considerably. The cut should be the width of the blade. On the other hand, if we will need to do hard work to extract much material, it is better to opt for upper blade angle. The sole of the finished plane also have to be the side which is closer to the bark. Planes with a chipbreaker on the iron first appeared at the end of the 1900s. geppetto425 is right. Line D. Mark a line square across the side of the plane, starting from the foot of the line from Line C. Line E. Transfer the line from line E across the top of the stock. While the one in the middle is the plane I make in this instructable. When the attack angle is lower, the cut is smoother. In this way, we get a movement that allows working for hours without a great effort on your arms and legs. This is the first time. To dismiss Japanese hand planes as a possible addition to your hand-tool collection means overlooking their benefits. The set up process for both are the same, in the sense that you are tuning the plane -- and generally the same parts of the plane -- prior to using it. Lay the iron centered on top of the stock as shown, and trace its width to establish the width of the rabbets. Your email address will not be published. Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a2176d22f1c2f6b1c038c20f4b816fd1" );document.getElementById("a77b89825f").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. In fact, when shopping for a Japanese hand plane, you'll find them categorized by the blacksmith's name. Some blade-makers have such a reputation for quality that their planes cost well over $1,000. If we add a blade of high quality, we achieved a completely smooth finish. When chiseling out the waste, you must use your eye and the C and K Lines that you marked on the sides of the body, to cut the bevels and the cheeks of the throat accurately. The "left" side, the side toward the center of the tree, is used for the sole of the plane, and the "right" side faces upward. Other than appearance, the most striking difference between these and Western planes is the direction of planing: Japanese planes cut on the pull stroke, similar to Japanese saws. Wow i like it! Mr. Inomoto also provided the directions for the individual steps based on his own methods for building traditional plane bodies. Difficult? Copyright 2022 Meredith Corporation. The blade is a wedge that tightens the further the blade is set. So draw the angle for the blade's bed and then trace the blades wedge shape over it with the blade about 1/8 inch away from the mouth(pic #4). Which hand planes should a power-tool woodworker buy first? Turn the plane around. are optimized for Western-style tools, though I do use a Japanese dovetail saw. The sharpening of the blade becomes a daily ritual to get an excellent cut. A few questions about that. They have no grip, or tote, and there is no fine adjustment using a threaded shaft. I would be interested in how well the epoxy laminated blade works and if it is holding up. on Step 7. As in chisels, we find hand planes of Western and Eastern tradition. Instead of 73,40 only 69.00 Only until end of month. Share it with us! If so (and even if not so), then I highly recommend that you buy a GOOD QUALITYhand plane as your first one, so that you have a solid base line on which to judge the quality and function of the rest of your plane acquisitions. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. Consider one of these three other clear finishes for your next project. Another must do project :DIf you (like me) need some more instructions how to make the blade, look at this video for guidelines https://youtu.be/04EKQs04B4k.
The combination of both is optimal. Therefore, the first step is to make the planes blade. Once I cracked a blade tapping it out and had to regrind the bevel, I started thinking about other options for future planes. I have not heard of anyone else making a blade by epoxy laminating available pieces of steel and am intrigued. Others will recommend the LV or the Clifton. First, remove and sharpen the blade. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. And I've bought several books and videos on planing that have helped me immensely. Most however, end up about 0.5 mm deep. I have no personal experience with either, except for Clifton's tiny (#400) shoulder plane -- it's superb! IMHO there is much more expertise available (here, in books, and in classes and clubs) to help one use a Western plane, so since I live here I chose the tools most often used here. And, not to get all mystic, but the Zen-like experience and satisfaction of seeing a paper-thin ribbon of wood float out from a tool you carefully tuned is surprisingly rewarding. .hide-if-no-js {
though it has only less than 300 members the knowledge is quite deep and people are very helpfull. The layout of the blade is set between 40-45 , they has a wide of 36-40 mm and a thickness of 4mm. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by. Mark on both sides of the stock the front part of the planes throat, where the shavings are cleared while planing. Each blade-maker uses a unique combination of forging techniques and metals that make his blades unique. You can always make it wider if you find you need too. Finally, the relatively light color of the wood makes sense, as it is easy to check the position of the dark plane iron because of the contrast between the two. Im getting started in woodworking, and am concentrating on hand tools and small projects first. With its basic, rectangular form, the traditional Japanese plane is representative of a lot of the aesthetic that informs traditional Japanese design. Be careful, the mouth will, under the cutting edge of the iron, be cut at a slant up toward the heel of the plane to form the throat and the bed. Darken the blade back with a soft pencil, then test the fit. When drawing these two lines, you must be very careful. You shouldn't be able to see any light between them at the cutting edge. Another consideration is what type of woodworking are you going to do, and what kind of wood do you expect to be using, in the main? Comparing a Japanese planer next to a Western planer. Many of them are made by hand from wood professionals, according to their needs and preferences.
You can now cut the throat of the plane. Although they are very sharp they don't have the heft to reduce chatter. Some very stable and beautiful wood might be obtained from flooring installers or dealers for the plane body, as well as for other projects. On most smoothing planes, the sole contacts the wood at the toe of the plane and just in front of the mouth. This cut is 1/4 inch shorter of blade width on each side. Finally, flatten the back side of the front edge of the chip breaker and check the fit on the blade. The body of a Japanese plane is called a dai (pronounced "die"). If you like Japanese hand planes, in the next few days we will see the best brands of these beautiful tools , Filed Under: Woodworking Tagged With: craftsman, hand planes, joinery, tools, wood, woodworker, woodworking, Your email address will not be published. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building! The position is based on a 60/40 division of the length of the board, with 60% in front of the iron and 40% behind it. Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers. The chip breaker or sub-blade is not necessary for the plane, but I will add one for demonstration. With these planes, the iron is set at almost a right angle to the sole, similar to our toothing or scraper planes. In those areas, a strip of wood about 1 - 1.5 cm is left in place and the rest of the sole is planed or scraped away slightly, to about the thickness of a piece of paper. <
Have a look at this video of our customer BergWerk how he made a DAI. The plane is made of either Japanese red or white oak, while the blade is a lamination of hard iron to softer iron. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building. That said, if you're a guy who likes to chart his own course and is willing to work a little harder to get the information you need, there's no doubt that equivalently great work can be done with either set of tools. Now is time the square the body by planing the sides, top and bottom. Keep repeating this process, removing the high spots in the throat until the cutting edge of the blade drops to within a couple of millimeters above the mouth opening. Did you make this project? Now draw a line to mark the beveled back of the iron on the side of the plane body. Each product we feature has been independently selected and reviewed by our editorial team. Japanese plane makers mark the angle with a traditional graduated carpenters square, but you can also use a sliding bevel and protractor. Mark the position of the mouth on the under side, or sole, of the board you are going to use for the stock. Line C. Transfer the lines from Line C across the sole of the plane. Nicely executed. I am making a high angle plane at 65 degrees, although the normal blade angle is around 45 degrees. This will make it easier to drill and pare this part, Line K. This line ends exactly on the end of Line C where it ends at the sole. In-depth articles, up-close photography, and detailed illustrations. Instead I sawed the body blank in half with a hand saw and sketched a final dimensions(pic #2). Line A. The thick end is 5/16" and the thin end is 3/16". 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Remember to not burn the hard metal. I guess it might be because any shrinkage would be less likely to cause warping in the base plane? Another pro or con is that a blade will outlast the body or dai as it is called so in time you buy another dai and fit the blade to it. If you have large hands a wider dai may be more comfortable when flattening a board, I find my fingers dragging when using a thinner dai. Lay the body on its side and mark the angle of the planes iron. It wasnt easy to find Japanese hand planes. We finished our post here. 8 years ago We shadowed two experienced makers and installers of custom cabinetry to bring you simple tips and tricks that will keep your built-in projects (and your sanity) on the bubble.. Planes came into use in Japan much later than in Europe, sometime around the year 1500. This hollow spot is called the "shakumi" and because they are hand made, different with every iron smith and even every individual iron. 1 Using is more interesting than having. After shaping, I used J.B. Weld to hold the three layers of metal together. Derechos: Podrs ejercer tus derechos de acceso, rectificacin, limitacin y suprimir los datos en este formulario as como el derecho a presentar una reclamacin ante una autoridad de control. The time you dedicate to learning how to finesse a plane for ultimate performance will be rewarded. on Introduction.
Space on each side of the blade permits lateral adjustment to keep the cutting edge parallel to the sole. I can see why the need for really stable timber is a good position to work from on the plane. Placing the blade on the Japanese planer. Also, the other items I have (workbench, vises, etc.) Then you must spend a lot of time and effort to fit infills to firm up the irons bedding. That being said the Lie Neilsen planes are a joy to use and other than a little bit of sharpening they are ready to go right out of the box. It should be straight-grained and tension-free, and should have been allowed to season at least two years. As with sharpening any blade, flatten and polish the back before focusing on the bevel. This stresses the dai as it will be during use, so check the bottom of the dai for flatness using a straightedge. For fine adjustments when fitting the iron to its bed, you pass the the iron over an oil-soaked pad. A longer sole ahead of the blade helps steady the plane on the workpiece at the start of the stroke.
we could use the inherant properties of the wood to both hole the plane square in the long term and stabilise the wood and to boot use much cheaper timber. Our biweekly podcast allows editors, authors, and special guests to answer your woodworking questions and connect with the online woodworking community. The wood must be chosen with special care. You want a smooth edge and polished surface so shavings slide up and out of the throat, but the edge doesn't need to be razor sharp. Finally, set the depth and lateral position of the cutting edge with light taps on the blade [Photo H]. How is the blade holding up? Even so, the intention of these centenarian tools is to face any task of general brushing and smoothing. The ideal plane for rabbeting, panel raising and trimming tenons. Reply The are many ways the cut out the blade's bed. It is possible that as the wood dries over the years, the sole of the plane can become slightly hollowed. However, the plane functions fine and is holding up. Beautiful work.thanks for sharing.
Awesome project. 5 years ago. We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. Their simple design, without mechanical blade adjusters, has changed little over hundreds of years. Then tap the chip breaker firmly in place before planing.
You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? To do this we will use the corresponding Western hand planes. A Japanese hand plane is also known as a Kanna. Until that time, surfaces were smoothed with the so-called spear planes, called yari ganna. The bottom should be perfectly flat at this stage like picture #4.
If the lines are not accurate, the rabbet in the cheeks of the stock to take the edges of the iron of the plane could be too wide, and the iron will be loose in the stock and the plane cannot be used. With the eastern, we refer to Japanese hand planes, some fabulous tools for woodworking. I recommend reading material over the kanna to fully understand the tool before building one.
File and smooth the chipbreaker so it sits flat on the blade without gaps at the cutting edge. The two narrow strips along the edges of the blade and the area directly behind the cutting edge form a flat reference surface. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. A steel or wood counter blade to avoid splinters, A nut to hold the blade and the counter blade. To reduce friction, the soles of traditional Japanese planes are planed slightly concave. Note: these directions were documented in the Inomoto workshop in Sanjo, Japan, which specializes in the production of smoothing planes. For example, the wedge-shaped blade tapers in thickness, which helps hold it in place. Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine. I used a vise to hold the blade and bent corners with a hammer. After cutting the mouth and the rabbet for the iron, this should allow the iron to bed solidly in the body. Reply It will absolutely work the way it's pointed out in the ible, but for some reason that I don't know, the Japanese plains are quarter sawn. Thus, these tools are for the final phase of furniture manufacture or wood structures. Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane). You have outstanding qualities in soft woods. If you make a purchase using the links included, we may earn commission. Line B. https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Ultimate-Colle 7 years ago Kashi wood is very strong and resists splitting, and so there are seldom problems with cracks or splinters in the body. Install the blade and chip breaker and adjust the depth until the blade nearly protrudes through the bottom of the dai. Beautiful project!! In fact, the only material I bought was the epoxy. With only basic woodworking skills, a tablesaw, and a few simple tools, you can make custom cabinets for your home or shop. Informacin adicional: En la Poltica de Privacidad de Labois encontrars informacin adicional sobre la recopilacin y el uso de su informacin personal por parte Labois, incluida informacin sobre acceso, conversacin, rectificacin, eliminacin, seguridad y otros temas. This forum post is now archived. So take the time to do it right and cut a perfectly-fitted bed to hold the iron properly.
The blacksmith stamps his mark on every plane blade. After a day to let the epoxy dry, I ground the blade to a 25 degree angle and honed it to a razors edge. My chip breaker is half the length of the blade and is made of soft metal. The measurements are available in pic #2. Converts from Western hand planes insist the steel in a Japanese plane provides a smoother finish on their work, with additional tactile feedback and an intimate connection with the workpiece. The blade differs from that on a Western plane in other ways, too. I have used both Japanese style and Western planes. The thick blade holds a super-sharp cutting edge, the hallmark of a Japanese hand plane [Photo C]. If the chip breaker rocks or "rattles" against the blade when applying pressure at the corners, file material from the point of the "ear" on the back where it contacts the blade [Photo G]. They left behind a smooth, but slightly wavy or grooved surface. Just glue a piece of thick paper to the blades bed. The flat face of the iron is placed on the Line B. If not, any issues with the blade shifting side to side or popping out of the wedge? 8 years ago I used a Ron Hock blade and you can use the same blade in any number of plane bodys as well as having fun using different woods to make your plane. For hardwood, an angle of 42 degrees is recommended. I use Japanese planes 80% of the time. You've also ignored a third alternative, wooden planes in the western style, which you might also want to look into. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. Now you need to take the iron, and measure, on the back side of the iron, how deep and wide the concave area is. The planes are mostly designed for, and work best on various kinds of softwoods. The "common plane" comes in different widths. There are special planes used for shaping the bottom of the plane, although I just use the planes blade at a 90 degree angle in a scraping motion. The blacksmith starts with a hard, but brittle, steel for the cutting edge. Heres how. I shaped the wedge before laminating with an angle grinder. It is then tapped into place with a hammer, and then knocked back out. The blade is around 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. Suzuki-ya 510-409-0217suzukitool.comHida Tool & Hardware Co. 510-524-3700hidatool.comWoodcraft 800-225-1153woodcraft.comPlane floats and rasps: Lee Valley 800-871-8158leevalley.com. I find that laminating idea quite fascinating and was wondering if you have any other examples of it being used. They are wonderful to use once set up, but I do not like the expense of the blades or dealing with sharpening the hard steel and tapping out the back. Because they look different than steel-body Western planes, Japanese hand planes (kanna) may seem like primitive mystery tools used only by esoteric craftsmen.
Ive been to the Japan Woodworker site, read the instructions on how to set up a plane, and it doesnt seem like something that is too far out of my skill level. The breaker is sharpened like the blade and is held in place by a rod, I used a nail. <
They are usually set between 25 - 40 degrees, Hi, I've added your project to "The Ultimate Collection of DIY Workshop Tools" Collection. The two ends of the plane body, or dai, are named "atama" for the front, or toe, and "shiri" for the back, or heel. If the plane will be used as a smoothing plane, the slot between the iron and the front of the mouth should be kept as narrow as possible. Better-quality Japanese planes feature bladesand often chip breakersforged by highly skilled blacksmiths [Photo B]. You work much closer to the wood with the Japanese planes than with the Western styles. If it is possible, it is better to choose a hand plane with blue steel. I will be making a smoothing plane which is similar to a Stanley no. For a smoothing plane the bottom only touches the wood at the front of the plane and right before the blade(pic #5 and #6). These ones are also flat-sawn: http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/index.php?id=222. On planes like this one, with a chipbreaker fitted, the angle on the face of the throat away from the iron is about 80 degrees. Click for full details. Sight along the sole to judge the blade protrusion and parallelism to the sole. I'd stay away from a thin blade, like the type with the replaceable blades where you screw in a new blade on a non replaceable iron. Note: Since the plane cuts on the pull stroke, the front and back of the plane are opposite of Western planes. However, the set-up mechanics and specific goals differ considerably. The cut should be the width of the blade. On the other hand, if we will need to do hard work to extract much material, it is better to opt for upper blade angle. The sole of the finished plane also have to be the side which is closer to the bark. Planes with a chipbreaker on the iron first appeared at the end of the 1900s. geppetto425 is right. Line D. Mark a line square across the side of the plane, starting from the foot of the line from Line C. Line E. Transfer the line from line E across the top of the stock. While the one in the middle is the plane I make in this instructable. When the attack angle is lower, the cut is smoother. In this way, we get a movement that allows working for hours without a great effort on your arms and legs. This is the first time. To dismiss Japanese hand planes as a possible addition to your hand-tool collection means overlooking their benefits. The set up process for both are the same, in the sense that you are tuning the plane -- and generally the same parts of the plane -- prior to using it. Lay the iron centered on top of the stock as shown, and trace its width to establish the width of the rabbets. Your email address will not be published. Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a2176d22f1c2f6b1c038c20f4b816fd1" );document.getElementById("a77b89825f").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. In fact, when shopping for a Japanese hand plane, you'll find them categorized by the blacksmith's name. Some blade-makers have such a reputation for quality that their planes cost well over $1,000. If we add a blade of high quality, we achieved a completely smooth finish. When chiseling out the waste, you must use your eye and the C and K Lines that you marked on the sides of the body, to cut the bevels and the cheeks of the throat accurately. The "left" side, the side toward the center of the tree, is used for the sole of the plane, and the "right" side faces upward. Other than appearance, the most striking difference between these and Western planes is the direction of planing: Japanese planes cut on the pull stroke, similar to Japanese saws. Wow i like it! Mr. Inomoto also provided the directions for the individual steps based on his own methods for building traditional plane bodies. Difficult? Copyright 2022 Meredith Corporation. The blade is a wedge that tightens the further the blade is set. So draw the angle for the blade's bed and then trace the blades wedge shape over it with the blade about 1/8 inch away from the mouth(pic #4). Which hand planes should a power-tool woodworker buy first? Turn the plane around. are optimized for Western-style tools, though I do use a Japanese dovetail saw. The sharpening of the blade becomes a daily ritual to get an excellent cut. A few questions about that. They have no grip, or tote, and there is no fine adjustment using a threaded shaft. I would be interested in how well the epoxy laminated blade works and if it is holding up. on Step 7. As in chisels, we find hand planes of Western and Eastern tradition. Instead of 73,40 only 69.00 Only until end of month. Share it with us! If so (and even if not so), then I highly recommend that you buy a GOOD QUALITYhand plane as your first one, so that you have a solid base line on which to judge the quality and function of the rest of your plane acquisitions. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. Consider one of these three other clear finishes for your next project. Another must do project :DIf you (like me) need some more instructions how to make the blade, look at this video for guidelines https://youtu.be/04EKQs04B4k.