I cleaned out the fuel filters and checked to make sure it's getting plenty of fuel.
Check your carburetor float for leakage / fuel inside it. It only takes about a minute or two for the bowl to fill when you want to use your tractor, but this will definitely help to keep the crud from forming on the float, Hope this helps! 
I have only put about 5-7 hours on it if that. Had to use old ones . When running, engine backfires through intake and runs rough and has no power. It lives again! I'm so glad I read others reviews before I purchased this carb. Good luck. gas inlet.
Once upon a time it was a brass plug filter - similar to the old brass fuel filters used in GM (Rochester) carbs. 
The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received.
these old engines were designed to run real gasoline, this junk they sell today will not run correctly. New Points and condensers are nothing but garbage these days. After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. It may not display this or other websites correctly. What a difference this carburetor made on my 1948 Ford 8N! The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Thanks! Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. will take apart carb and inspect it after I get the hydraulics put back together on the tractor. If you have a needle assembly like this one, you sometimes can remove just the needle assembly and clean the port with the carb still on the tractor. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Bolted up real nice, came with new gasket as well. I noticed one thing, it runs much better at about 40% choke. Three main possibilities: ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box coil - - the most likely suspect. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. The main jet can be removed with this plug out but be sure you have the exact size screwdriver for the jet and be careful - it is brass and easily broken. Good carb and almost as cheap as a rebuild kit, Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2021. It used to run pretty good until the bondo and bailing wire that was holding the bellcrank mount on the governor came loose and I couldn't get the throttle to advance beyond an idle. COIL!!! I know its gettin fuel to the carburator because it has a new gas sediment bowl thats full of fuel.
Works great on my 1949 9N. Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. You may need to adjust the throtlle adjustment screw up or, down as you do this. the manual say the main jet should only be turned out 2 turns or so. Head gasket and intake gasket have been replaced. It is merely a vent for the throat of the carb, to let any liquids drain out but not allow dirt into the throat area. Can anyone tell me what that part is?
I have had the experience that as the filter or settling bulb plugs or the fuel line gets obstructed or the carburettor with out any of these items gets grit into the jets a little choke becomes necessary to pull the gas through to keep the engine running.
If you have the actual spec., use a drill bit of the proper size as a gauge to measure from the top of the float to the gasket surface.
Next, set the idle speed.
If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. Still stalling out and running rough when I turn the throttle up. Hope it helps, Al The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. have been a casting irregularity in the body. What would cause this? hth MountainmanCA Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. "image": { "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", The engine should pick up the load smoothly. When I opened the throttle full it quickly rose to 2200 rpm--again without stalling out or hiccuping.
thanks Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor. I put the old carbs back on and that goes away. I would think that the carb is getting out of adjustment or you have an intake leak somewhere, but there are some super savoy 9N members here that would likely shed more light on this for you. They do fail over time. JavaScript is disabled. coil - - the most likely suspect. Initial settings on the, mixture screws are to turn them all the way in and then back each out 1 turn. Hats off to Sparex, you made my old machine come back to life! The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. Looks like I need to check my points. It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. Would order again. I will check that out tomorrow. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. }, My 9N runs fine, except when going up or down a hill. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. "userInteractionCount": 7 The idle screw is bass akwards in for rich and out for lean so when you screw it all the way in your adding fuel. A family friendly forum community dedicated to all Tractor owners and enthusiasts. After trying to accelerate and move around both have issues under load for a few seconds.
I figured I would start a new thread since I think this is a different problem.
engine warm you can fine tune the mixtures. Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. redid all the electrical.
Before turning the ignition key off, close the valve on the fuel line and let it run until it completely runs out of gas and stalls. Yes, I got a whole new aftermarket governor. It may be difficult to hear or sense fuel sloshing inside a leaking float. Closer inspection revealed a recessed screw had fallen out. something must be clogged in the carburator. Carborator was replaced on my Ford 8N during a minor refurbishment. Use a new gasket when you mount the carb to the manifold. I have a 1940 9N, that has run like a top since I bought it last year. All the way in is less air, so max rich!
The cost was minimal for the piece of mind to rule out the carburetor as a potential problem. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded.
Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2019, very nice fit, looks great. { In this case you must disassemble, the body and try to bend the float just a little. My ford 8N started right up with hardly an adjustment. The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. put on a newer carb from a different 8n that ran good 3 years ago before parked, when I went to start, it would bog down if I didnt have the choke half way out. I would take the carb to them & show them the part you need. JavaScript is disabled. If there was, there's a good possibility some went beyond that, and may be plugging the elbow strainer in the carb., IF there is even one left in there.
The Rubbing blocks on the points are wearing and your gap is decreasing.
Will not affect the operation of the carb but will allow unfiltered air into the intake if not plugged. Russell Rigsby Dell reminds us that most fuel problems are solved by fixing the electrical system. Once plugs have been cleaned and fuel adjustment rod is removed, engine starts and runs fine for approximately 20 minutes, then starts rough idling and finally stalls. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. Back each screw out one full turn. Start the. After installation was done, turned the knob on the fuel bowl, watched the fuel flow. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. "@type": "WebPage", That means there is a definite plug in the flow that has to be removed and this problem generally slowly gets worse until the engine won''t stay running. are notorious for floats going bad and taking on gas, shake the float to see if this has happened. Also, the secondary air mixture screw has no effect on engine idling or performance as well, either adjusting all the way in or out does not change engine idle or fuel air balance.
"width": 200, The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. Went back through all three adjustments on the carb. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. This page works best with JavaScript. started right up. Copyright 2000-2020 by, SmokStak Steam Traction and Tractor Forums. as well.
I have to back the throttle way off back down to idle to keep it running, then when I advance it again it starts lurching again. When in gear it lurches forward, then starts to die, then lurches forward again. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Well, maybe I'm an Idiot?
- Skip, I posted to the N-forum, and there was given the John Deere cross-ref part number (75-98) for a replacement 'strainer', as it's called. He finally tore the governor apart, and discovered the cross drilled hole in the lever shaft the thrust fork pins too, was way off, compared to the OEM arm. You must log in or register to reply here. I had the same symptoms with mine. The main screw adjusts gas flow, not air. Also the seat of the needle & seat assembly may have loosened and started backing out. As a owner of a fleet of these N series tractors and your description of the problem points me to a problem I have had with over 3 dozen of mine. And beyond that, could be the discharge nozzle, cross drilled holes plugged to. "@type": "ImageObject", I only wanted a fresh new look but something isnt right twice. They do fail over time. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. "@context":"https://schema.org",
I climbed into the seat and she fired right up!
thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. I got about 15 feet and it stalled. done this on many old tractor carbs to make them purr again. Cleaned it several times .
I had to turn the main jet needle almost all the way out ta get the motor to run smooth without using choke. Very impressed and look forward to getting to work pushing snow. "logo": {
The only thing I've had to adjust is the idle screw. Then occasionally the carb floods and gas pours out the carb. If there was a screw in there, a rebuilder must have installed it.
Nothing lose or leaking, that I can see anyway. JavaScript is disabled. The N series carb has 3 adjustments, the idle air screw (on the right side of the carb), the main adjustment screw (on the front of the carb) and the throttle adjustment screw, Any adjustment is useless unless the timing is checked and correct and the plugs are, Turn the main adjustment screw and the idle air screw in until you feel them "seat" -, don't force them, just finger pressure. Carb is a perfect fit. If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. SMOKSTAK is a Registered Trade Mark in the U.S. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Trademark Office. if anyone is like me and skeptical about trying online products, think no longer for this one. }, great product. I have it out about 5 turns. After numerous adjustments, it was still no better. Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring.
Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. So I took off the air cleaner tube, sprayed it all down with carb cleaner and blew it out. I had trouble with the 90 fuel elbow filter lining up with the new fuel line I purchased as well. As soon as the throttle lever hits the carb, it wants to stall. The large screw adjusts the power circuit mixture, adjust it at operating rpms and normal engine temp. Got it running and excited for the spring. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. Have to unscrew and remove the carburetor main fuel adjustment rod entirely before the engine will run smoothly. Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. Enter Our Dog Days of Summer BBQ Giveaway Now! It could be the main jet needs cleaning or even a very fine enlarging, but there are other issues like flow into the bowl or filters etc. If you need the choke out when the engine is warm, you have a fuel starvation issue. One little problem were the mounting studs and nuts, too soft and would not hold torque . No need to purchase the suggested Tisco 9N9553 Strainer Assembly, the carb comes with it, along with spark plugs, points studs, nuts, 3 gaskets and a rubber hose I haven't figured out yet.
As the others have said firing order, bad valve. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[];function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);}gtag('js',new Date());gtag('config','G-04SJ2KTSCK',{cookie_flags:'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none'}); Welcome! Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Repeat this, process (a dozen times or more) until you get it right. "height": 57 If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off. JavaScript is disabled. I did need to adjust a few air and fuel screws, but my tractor had sat for almost 2 years. "headline":"1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems ", Turn the idle air screw in or out until you find the points where it, starts to run rough (too rich and too lean a mixture) then put the screw halfway between. I read a comment from a guy online stating that he removed the float and found that the float had fuel in it from a tiny pin hole leak. Toss a condenser in it. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. If it, "coughs" or "stutters" unscrew the main screw about 1/8 of a turn and repeat until the. I found this. "mainEntityOfPage": { I'm stumped. You are using an out of date browser. Mike Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed..
The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. With the.
It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. They can break down with age, shorting or cross firing when the electrical resistance in the wire covers goes bad. The old carburetor had gotten water in it, which because it sits lower than the fuel tank can commonly happen (especially if the fuel line isn't shut off.) In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so.
Any suggestions? Even new floats hang up must. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2020. I got the idle down and it sounded almost perfect at full throttle. Check by running under load and idling to make sure everything works as described, You have to pull that brass packing holder out use a small screwdriver and gently pry the, new seal is installed with the open end in like all seals the choke bushing is the same, Manual will be automatically added to "My Manuals", Tractor Ford 2000 Operator's Handbook Manual. Hope it helps, Al COIL!!! "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Any adjustment to the main mixture makes it worse or does nothing. The wire should be soft and supple, and should be wire core (like Packard 440) , not carbon core as used in modern autos. Float drop is important too, the float can potentially hang open if it drops too far, can't remember what that spec is, I think around 1 9/16" or so. "name": "Russell Rigsby" You may benefit by adding an inline fuel filter, you may have to clean out the gas tank if there is too much matter in it. ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur, condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box. Spark plugs are wet with fuel when removed. Used this carburetor on my 1940 9n . Backfire is not caused by a fuel problem. Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. Right-side-up air will pass easily. 2022 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. you may need to redrill the metering jet inside the carb. The carburetor came assembled and ready to use, which included bench tuned. The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. Any attempt to replace the fuel adjustment rod while running stalls the engine. When you increase the RPM's the points tend to float and cause you to loose power making you think you have carburetor problems since your having to pull the choke knob. Any help? "interactionStatistic": { You must log in or register to reply here. Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. The small adjusting screw on the carb is the idle mixture - adjust it with the engine at low idle. If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received. Russell Rigsby Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor.
In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. ordered another for my other 8n ford. Reviewed in the United States on July 26, 2016. So I bought a new governor, installed it and now the tractor misses, idles rough, and when you advance the throttle acts as if its not getting enough fuel. Adjust the idle air screw, in or out, until the engine runs, smoothly at about 400 rpm. ", I had a 8N that did the same thing, I found the main adjustment threads waowed out and sucking air, new carb fixed the proplem. }. "@type": "ImageObject", Hard to re-start. COIL!!! Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. "@type": "Person", Fast shipping, arrived exactly as advertised, very reasonably priced. Did you get a new aftermarket governor, to replace the old one..?? It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness. I decided to take it for a spin and see how it acted under load. If the float is, hanging up, the valve won't seal and air will always pass. Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. "description":"Discussion of 1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems in the Tractors forum followed by comments. Reviewed in the United States on July 14, 2022. "datePublished": "2003-03-31",
Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, I'm so glad I read others reviews before I purchased this carb, Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2016. As the others have said firing order, bad valve. Up-side-down no air will pass.
"height": 57 It would stall as soon as I dropped it in the grass. I have rebuilt the carb, but I suspect the float is sticking. Thanks again, guys! The large plug underneath is a drain for the main jet well - debris collects here first and will cause serious running problems. The price was reasonable and it arrived quickly and was exactly as described. The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. Backfire is not caused by a fuel problem. I had the same symptoms with mine. no adjustments needed and fires right up. After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. Fresh fuel and a thorough clean of every part of the carb, and see that there is good fuel-flow to the carb. Mike The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. Wire breakdown will be especially noticable in damp weather and or under load. Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. He used the OEM arm, and re-assembled. Re-assemble and test again. - either it was not simply a drain plug, or I reassembled something wrong. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. "@type": "Organization", "A Community of Antique Engine Enthusiasts." A buddy of mine did a complete rebuild on his 9N last year, and I found a place that had the internals at a much more reasonable price.
With the engine under medium to heavy load at half-throttle, snap the hand throttle open to "full". I just changed the governor and that helped but I still didn't have enough power to run my brush hog. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction",
"@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" I am assuming the fuel is not from 1947. }, I was able to immediately bolt it up connect and start the tractor. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Another way to check your float for leakage (pinhole leak) is to put it in a small container of gasoline an see if one side sinks deeper relative to the other side. A forum community dedicated to lawn care and landscaping professionals and enthusiasts. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, Outdoor Hub, LLC (d/b/a Carbon Media Group), 30800 Telegraph Rd, Suite 1921, Bingham Farms, MI 48025 USA. I had a carb like that on a fegurson that I onced owned. Our brush hog at the Carrie Furnaces is a 1942 Ford 9N. Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1010371/Ford-8n-8nan.html, https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-phfCT71-21__24250.1599054569.jpg?c=2&imbypass=on, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", You are using an out of date browser. been fighting my old shebler for a couple years now finally took the leap and for $100 and 5 minutes i am back to running like new with my 8n. If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off.
If the spark checks out OK, I'd check these next. Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. Here's the thread about my governor problem. A forum community dedicated to all tractor owners and enthusiasts.
It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. New distributor,coil, points, etc. We never did change out the spark plug wires. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we dont use a simple average. Start the tractor in the dark, and run your hand near the wires, making sure you do not put your hand near anything that can hurt you (IE: moving parts). John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. -Psalm 37:5-. If the rpms rev higher you could be sucking air. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. } So, I adjusted the carb as the manual says and with some help on other websites. Antique Tractors - Yesterday's Tractors : Antique Tractor Headquarters. They do fail over time. Might be the thing to try next. screw until the engine is running at 400 rpm. Ford 8N tractor (front distributor) quit on me, and I saw that gas was running out of the bottom of the carb lower body. Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2016. if i would have known that this was so easy i would have done it years ago. I have a 1947 ford 8n tractor that I bought from someone that didnt run. Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2022. Seem to work fine. Make sure you've thoroughly checked you ignition for nice whiteish/blue spark.