It will be nice when we can get out and patronize local businesses again. Next we coupled the rotor to the shafte adapter using six allen screws. There are better ones but that will work and be reliable. The other benefit that I havent tested yet is the increase in useable torque. 
OrangeTractorTalks brings together Kubota enthusiasts from around the world, into one place, purpose built just for them. 5 stars for the Drill Press Reduction kit! Next we hooked up hole saw with 36mm dia and later moved to a 40mm dia holesaw and the drill press seems to handle both of them without any problem. But believe its almost impossible to get it solved otherwise as we dont own a lathe at this moment and the lather workers in our area are going to further ruin this whole unit.
I'm very pleased with my 4:1 kit. Another thing I learned is that its MUCH easier to install this kit if you lay the drillpress down on its face so that you can work on the motor/plate installation horizontally. So instead of making a customized adapter what we decided to do is to modify the main shaft pully to act as a holder for the rotor. Very satisfied. You DO have to make some cuts in the original sheetmetal pan and top cover of your drillpress so that youll have adequate belt clearances. I used some 1/2" X 7" hot rolled plate left over from another project. would be a massive upgrade that takes under an hour MAX to install. I got everything mounted in the case, twice. IMO, it is a basic necessity when drilling metal, which I do a lot of. I literally just bought an 80's-vintage drill press the same day you started this thread and was already thinking about variable speed control. You must log in or register to reply here. Excellent design. Makes drilling and tapping a breeze. On the other hand, it will give you the option of reverse to center bits and back out taps. Heres an example of how the setup will actually affect my spindle speeds using the slowest pulley combinations: Heres the holes I am trying to drill, and the kit that I received: (Diet Coke not included) Once we dry fitted everything, the first problem we faced is rotor getting stucked to the stator as the machining of both the parts we not upto the marks so we messed with the 0.5 mm clearance. think about how much torque those things produce is such a small package. Though I have heard that there are now versions that run on 115VAC. Now to drive the ESC manually and controll the speed of the motor we are going to use a servo tester thats goin to provide the required PWM controller to the ESC and help us controll the speed of the chuck accurately and yes without messing up with the mehanical pullies or any gear. To make sure that this hole is exact in the centre we did made final cuts on the lathe machine as there is very limited clearance between the rotor and the stator. You must log in or register to reply here. I was recently told to do the same with drill press, but I have very little experience in this area and your post helped me a lot with this. I was almost ready to order one from EMotors Direct but $280 for a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor from them. I needed to lower the RPM of my drill press to allow for using a 3/4 inch annular cutter for making holes in half inch steel. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Nice project. Do you know what wattage the motor is? I should be able to use some 18V batteries to get make a battery powered drill press. I got a 1hr Baldor NOS for $75 shipped about a year ago. Very impressive. Next we drilled a 40mm hole exactly in the cente of the the rotor, removing the ball bearing along with its assembly. Teco drives are pretty reliable. as we all know, REAL metalworking drill presses are a LOT more money than the woodworking ones (I think I paid maybe $300 for this one brand new). After all the aggravations Ive dealt with through the years with the high speed low torque slowest setting of the machine I was blown away. probably weather-related, time change.whatever. I don't have a problem throwing some money at this old drill press as it has served us well over the years. Always wondered how you tap with a drillpress ? Great addition to the shop, allows much safer and more accurate drilling as well as longer intervals between resharpening. I found that those foot switches work much better when tapping holes with the drill press because it gives you an extra free hand. I bought a 10" X 10" X 6" case with a hinged cover to mount everything in. And yes, they're all slightly different, so you'll have to do the homework you don't want to do. Also had to buy new belts to get everything to work. Besides that this thing is damn heavy and obviously need a socket so the mobility of this tool arround the workspace is zero. The only thing that I'd say to be aware of is that this kit is not a 30 minute simple bolt-on job. So we drilled holes at each end of the trigonal holder and cut off the supports. I had a $59 Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) 5 speed 8 inch drill press which I decided to soup up. I like how you worked out the problems as you Progressed. Now before we rip it a part, time to modify the motor. I had to modify the pulley's 5mm key to fit the 3/16" groove on the motor shaft. There is not good place to pry under either pulley. Typically 5/8-1 1/8" holes in 16ga-3/4" thick mild steel. If the power supply from the treadmill is missing or unusable, one solution is to use a 1000 watt rotary dimmer and a full wave bridge rectifier. A little overkill on the size of the steel but it was laying around. Converting that to VFD is certainly possible, but it would cost way more than the dp is worth. Great customer service, and quick shipping, has this in under a week to Alberta, Canada. I was disappointed that regular drill presses often don't have direction switches.
I got the used motor from Crosche here in the forum classifieds. I received it rather quickly, from a very nice and helpful sales rep (Skyler).
That's the advantage of a DC motor. The tread motor will be quieter than your original also. To test the drill press we charged the batteries and started testing. JavaScript is disabled. So we switched the ESC with a more powerful RC Car ESC ratted at 150A and 6 cells lipo. We made every possible effort to get this thing solved but for the time being the only solution that can help us get through is to grind the rotor!!!
But you have all the pieces you'll need, it's just a matter of installing them in a manner that will work on your drill press. 3phase motors are cheap on eBay. To drive the chuck directly we need to mount the stator arround the main shaft. Previously the drillpress was unable to start spining as we turn the switch one, but this time all we need to do is to turn the know to a particular speed and the chuck starts to spin. I put it on a Jet 14" bench drill press that had a slow speed of 450rpm. Looks very professional, maybe you have a new sideline. Next to good bits and a good chuck, the DPRK is about one of the best things you can do for a little drill press like this. I was taught..1 full turn, back a 1/4 turn, repeat,add oil, repeat Do you have special taps for drillpresses ? The quality of the whole thing is very nice for such an affordable product.
I've even been able to use the DPRK to set up the speed good enough to mill some aluminum. Wow this is a great idea. I've used it for hole saws, a Procunier No 3 tapping head, and drilling thousands of holes and it hasn't skipped a beat! Required fields are marked *. He suggested a 4:1 reduction kit based on my particular drillpress (Delta, Model 17-965) and a few days ago the kit arrived via UPS it gave me some motivation to get back into the shop and start spinning a few wrenches. This gives you a place to drop on the large 8 speed reduction pulley. I didn't understand why, but after a few days our drill press stopped working and I was very scared because I thought I had done something wrong. I'll report back later after i've had a chance to use it for a few months. Was a transition era design from the 100/150 design to the mid 70's design. Didnt seem real. 1 year ago Next we mounted the batteries inside the drill press housing thats now empty. It was not ideal for this use as it only had mounting holes for face mounting, no mounting bracket. Turned a ordinary drill press into an incredible machine. I am a fan of industrial grade DC motors and varIable speed drives on drill presses. First, I am not trying to optimize for cost or whatever here, but just having some fun with one of my home workshop's tools which gets periodic use. Now to mount the stator we need to remove the shaft and the holder from the centre of the stator. The outer casing is the hub containing all the magnets and its the rotor. one small thing i would like to see is possibly the allen head adjustment screws changed out for thumb screws, but that is a minor nit-pick and something i can do myself. Compared to the previous setup which is corded induction motor so we are bound to stay close to the socket but with the current setup we can operate cordlessly and with aconsiderableweight loss we can now move the drill press arround our workspace as per our convinience of working. Most of the treadmill motors that I have seen are rated at somewhere between 1.5 & 4HP. You will also need a three phase motor and 220VAC. I have had the DPRK installed for a few years now and it has been a great addition! You can also see that the sheetmetal pulley tray is interfering with the installation of the rear pulley and belt. Now to drive the drill chuck we need to mount the rotor on top of the main shaft. I would really like to make this project and have the speed adjust ability on my drill press. I was toying with a conversion myself to 'learn' VFD but some of the disassembly & new mounting issues made me think it wasn't going to be quick job. It has gobs of low end torque. After thinking about that for a while I decided I wanted the keep the multi groove pulley to allow for the maximum speed adjust-ability. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You are using an out of date browser. Nice. The ability to get my drill press down in to usable RPM for some of my heavier duty projects is exactly what I was hoping for. I used the belt sander to make a .009" step on one side of the key. I tried it both ways, and ended up with the pillowblocks facing forward as shown. It consists of a large offset pulley mounting plate, and a set of 4:1 ratio pulleys that will cut the speed of the motor down to a fraction of its previous setting (about 25% of original, Id say!). If I was really concerned, I would just go buy a factory VS drill press. Fortunately, Joe over at RogueFab saw my previous thread posts and contacted me about my drillpress issues, and we talked for a while about his reduction kits and how they would be a low-cost way to give me better cutting capabilities, and finish up all of those 2 speedholes in the monolith crossmember. Now these motors are outrunner brushless motor and they can produce a huge amount of torque. Thanks guys! The idea here is to rip off the older power house and replace with a much more powerful brushless hub motor from an old hoverboard. It works awesome. First drilling i did with the slower speed really highlighted the torque increase. I placed my order Friday for next day delivery, after the mailing cutoff via Internet. One word of advice i would suggest, i bought a harbor freight 12'' drill press brand new to use this reduction kit on, because it uses metric belts that are slightly smaller than 3/8 i would highly recommend starting off with a drill press with 1/2'' belts as they said on the "tech" portion of the website. It was easy to install on my PC press. This is not unexpected youll see the fix later on. Its a very nice product! I had to build a mounting bracket for the motor as it was designed to be face mounted. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Nice work coolest drill press ever ! Works with nearly all drill presses.