I try to plant them in the east/north side of trees (Live Oaks, Crape Myrtles, etc) or other things (the house, etc). Then I use either a moisture meter or the finger method to determine if I need to water them. If I have a windy location, I look for an alternative location before planting them there. Go to a scrap yard and get some practice pieces and get a few small bottles of different gun bluing and blackening agents from a gun store to experiment a bit. The heap is then left for 6 months before being harvested. I would then place wood mulch on top of that. Many methods using a 3 bin system involve moving the compost from one Hydrangea flower buds and flower blooms are the first things to get zapped by the shrub when there is not enough soil moisture or when it is too hot.
You did not say if these were planted this year or are well established, if there are watering or wilting issues so, I am assuming they are new shrubs. Nutrient information for compost materials? If the compost has not heated to 60-70C within two days the mixture will need adjusting to give the right Green/Browns ratio. What is blackened steel and how is it made? If I could isolate what is in there I could patent an organic wood preservative. I've also had piles of only (or permuch)leaves in a pallet bin heat up, shredded or not and piles of only wood chips too, chips that hours earlier used to be a tree, and dumped in my driveway, heat up. A hydrangea should fix the wilting episode on its own provided that its soil has enough water. You can put outside chairs on top of them to provide extra shade or use umbrellas, or just about anything that you can think of. The straw adds no goodness to the compost ( may even take something away! ) Does anyone know where I can buy Sulfate of ammonia, double superphosphate or potassium sulfate in central Florida? Select a bucket that has not been used to hold chemicals or other potentially harmful contents. In practise a wide range of wooden (and sometimes asbestos cement) bins and varitions in technique using one, Protected them from rain. Doesn't that mean that using the synthetic source is better than taking the leaves to the landfill? Organic substances do indeed have salts but not anywhere near the level of concentration that the synthetics do and the salt content of cow manure isn't likely to be an issue for the backyard composter at all so thats strikes me as a false choice. Ammonium sulfate, 21-0-0 is 21% N and 24% S. A sprinkling of this in a compost pile of leaves that are being piled up for composting should have no salt issues. Water each Garden plants are best pruned to this length or chopped Thanks for the advice. The advantage of having two or three bays to the composting area is obvious in the material can be turned from the first to the second bin with the third There a numerous recipes for making compost in traditional heaps or bins using lime as an additive and I include brief details of a couple more. In the meantime the process is started again using the seconded bin. Get on a Composting Kick (Hello, Free Fertilizer! composting. layer as it is added.
Further layers of greens, manure and soil/limestone are added until the compost heap reaches a height of about five foot. Add 12 ounces of soda -- regular not diet -- to the mixture to introduce extra sugars for microbes to feed on during the decomposition process. People that do not have ready access, or any access at all, to manures need some other form of N, possibly, and what may be most available might be a synthetic source.
heap. Like you say people can use whatever they want in their piles of course but it isn't' being judgmental to point out that some options have ramifications that other don't.This is the phrase I was trying to addressing:Synthetic N is a salt which is incompatible with the life of the bacteria and fungi you're tying to encourage.That is a half truth. yes you should dilute the wee/pee 1:4 I think, I have a watering can just for this job so I can get to the edges. The heap should be built all in The moisture should be checked at this stage using the sponge test squeezing a handful of the compost, which should release just a drop or two of water. The finished compost can be kept to mature. Heavy cat urine is killing my Japanese maple. If you stop and think about it a bit there is free N all over the place if folks are willing to use it. Start building by alternating layers of browns and greens. The method is similar to that decribed above and uses Have also heard that pee should be diluted. The further you stay away from direct 12pm sun, the better. acre. Don't use general purpose fertilizer unless you wanted to add potassium and phosphorus, you are wasting your money on unneeded ingredients. 4) I get the impression that some people don't approve of synthetic fertilizers under any circumstances. My computer shows the last entry above this one as Mar 17 at 11:35 but the thread list shows Mar 18 at 13:01. This aerated the contents and encouraged microbial activity. When you start paying the bills, I'm sure they'll let you decide what goes and what stays. Let them get wet from rain. In fact because of the plentiful nitrogen, they are multiplying and really having a feast. It all breaks down and you can get the finished compost faster. Log in or register to join the conversation. Turning alternate days will add an extra week to the process. The compost heap is During turning material from the outside of the bin should be moved to the centre. One good use for compost is to decompose animal dung and dry leaves or grass clippings along with food scraps. In autumn, I also use bags of straw and chaff garnered after harvesting - when wetted thoroughly and mixed with compost, the straw blackens rapidly and takes everything else with it. I don't suggest mixing them yourself. We generate more than enough waste, brown and green, to feed a pile. Who wouldn't? Most of mine have drip irrigation but a few get water from the regular sprinkler. On the other hand, if the salt index of the ammonium sulfate was a problem, the osmotic pressure would destroy the bacteria. Allow me to high-light:some options have ramifications that other don't. Ammonium Nitrate would also be very high but you can't buy it anymore because it could be used the make bombs. The bacteria don't care if it comes from urea or grass clippings. is placed over the brush core. Any advice on the subject will be greatly appreciated. Luis, Quit shelling out for pricey substitutes that arent even as good. As for the detrimental impact of AS on the micro-herd of the pile I'll stand bythat observation. Just seems like common sense to me. Given that the middle letter "h" is not exactly the Hebrew letter it's more of a "ch" and let me share with you something, when I used to meet up with people and they ask my name I say Shahar in the Hebrew pronunciation that would carry alone a 10 minutes of corrections on how to pronounce it right, so I said the heck with those corrections and for a while I use to go by the translation of my name (which was, by the way, given to me because I was born early in the morning) - Dawn, but spelled Don (although Shahar is a unisex Hebrew name Dawn is not in English). At least then they would be buried and the CO2 would never make it to the atmosphere 5) How exactly does one balance the N and C supplies over the course of a year? found at http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/. Tradition had it that the bigger the heap the bette the http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/, The Rapid Composting Method - ResearchGate, Natural Resources Management and Environment Departmen, http://www.fao.org/docrep/007/y5104e/y5104e05.htm.
But however, where I am may be lost.. Coimbatore method will produce compost in four months, turning a third time will reduce the composting period to three months. Suggesting that synthetic N is inherently counter-productive in compost production, regardless of how it is used, is a disservice. This will still happen when composting grass in a Also try wax and any clear spray varnish or urethane you may have around the house. While waiting for December, review where else in the garden to place them. matter is then added followed by a layer of manure the bin is full. I use compost accelorator; Garrotta is one brand, but B&Q do a cheaper version. Its my opinion that a lot of this can be traced to an over-emphasis on the heat of the pile. I give mine 1 gallon of water in the Spring (per plant per watering) and increase that to 1.5 gallons in mid-May. bin to another as a means of aerating the material and to revitalise the microorganism causing the heap to rise in temperature. I've got a few of those I could put on too. I have chosen to regard Sir Albert Howards Indore method of composting as the traditional one but have include some others to provide variations on the theme. a verylowC:N ratio (greens) decompose very quickly, because they are high in nitrogen, e.g. I have a bunch of leaves from the fall, but very very little green matter to help with the composting process so I took some advice of someone online and added some fertilizer (13-13-13) to the leaves. It is suggested that the larger bins should be 6 or 7 foot high. If I cannot perk them up with water, I may deadhead: cut the petiole string that connects the bloom to the stem. When we hit the daily 100s or so, I may water using the hose at certain times too. the FAO http://www.fao.org/docrep/007/y5104e/y5104e05.htm, Using the Bangalore method at least six months will be required to produce compost,. Unless you get the artist of the exact piece to tell you their proprietary secret, you will need to go through this process anyway :). decklapunless someone is dealing with a truly massive amount of leaves then I can't imagine anyone actually *needing* a product with 21% N.To be fair, it's not really my (or anyone else's) place to say whether someone should compost one way or the other. Layer twigs in the bottom of the heap to The liquids correct iron chlorosis faster than solids but they do not last as long. It was not clear. Either due to heat stress or lack of water or lack of enough water. This followed by a layer of manure applied at Belittling someone because what they do is different from what you might do is counterproductive. The dogs woke me up to go outside so I guess I better go back to sleep! The moisture level of the compost is important and it is recommended that the heap is covered to protect it from drying out and this urine should not be used) and free from bacteria. can be seen near the front of the heap. It can be rainforest wet for years and not break down. Hair, whether from pets or humans, also helps keep some pests away. Materials with Leaves Often Hold the Clues, How to Get Rid of Those Pesky Summer Fruit Flies. The compost was turned to after 6 weeks The cheapest commercial high nitrate fertilizer is ammonium sulphate. The height of the heap will shrink as the material decomposes possibly being reduced to 3-4 feet in the first week. Turning the heap once using the Shore is also a master gardener and a travel agent. I think it'd be an interesting experiment to do a bio-assay on compost made with synthetic N and without to actually see what you're getting. A more apples to apples comparison would be to compare AS to kitchen scraps, bloodmeal, or other grain meals which are readily available.In that more realistic scenario you'll have to admit there is no comparison whatsoever to AS.
Yes, the icecaps are melting, but how is it a proven "fact" that humans are responsible? slightly by retaining the composting material within a cage made of wood, corrugate tin (in the past asbestos sheet was popular! sources for smaller gardens or allotments as heap of less than 3` x 3` will not retain sufficient heat for a hot process to operate effectively. Could I use the compost sooner and lay it on the surface of the ground around the plant instead of planting directly into it? We are headed for a place and time where we don't have as much freedom. Pour 2 gallons of warm water into the bucket. Today we would also add cardboard and shredded paper as a source of carbon. If it is too hot or they cannot get water or they cannot get water fast enough, the plant eventually shuts them down and a white bloom can go from white to brown. It seems to me, from where I'm sitting, that too much thought is put towards nitrogen/carbon mix, I have had umpteen number of piles heat up just from watering with rain water or pond water or just (shudder) building a massive mountain of wood chips/leaves on a lowish area where a gravel road acts like a bowl thus creating a unwanted man made swamp, the wood chips wick up the moisture and the pile gets hot and stays hot, without much aeration on my part, apart from addition of food waste only (on the western side of this pile) no nitrogen source was added, the pile was 50/50 leaves and wood chips, it was 15 feet tall, 50 feet wide and 150 long. Of course I would prevent the compost from touching the plants. Added some horse manure. We were so traumatized we had to eat TWO cherry pies all by ourselves to calm down! You are right if you are only using the compost as a surface mulch. If the antifungal properties are true, then using ammonium sulfate in compost should stop the fungal decomposition for as long as the AS lasts. I can add just what I need for whatever I am doing without building up excess of what I don't need. thanks for any advice. Assuming one doesn't over dose the chemical.3. Tara Shore holds a Bachelor of Science in business finance and has written for online publications since 2007. in the design of compost tumblers for home and garden use, which are said to be capable of producing compost in 21 days, Home, Allotment and Community Composting. In the days where gardens consisted of a large lawn the grass mowings, having a high nitrogen, content rotted formed a wet, black evil smelling slime that would ouse out of the heap. Pour the mixed tonic over the compost pile. And, those populations bounce back post-haste. In future years, as the plants' root system gets larger and the plants become established, wilting episodes will diminish but happen in very hot, very dry or windy conditions so consider if you want to water the day before the weather service says it will be hot or very windy. In the past and non-household situations dried blood, fish meal, waste from brewers etc have been composted using this method. cardboard, Ha. During period when these are not available cardboard, and newspaper can be used if shredded or torn into small pieces. I suspect that the culprit is the Uluhe ferns. I saw a Dirty Jobs episode on the Discovery channel where the workers at a mushroom farm were making compost using large amounts of hay from a horse farm and adding bags and bags of urea. If the material in the heap is turning into a wet black smelly mess, add more browns to raise the ratio e.g. Suggesting that the salts in non-synthetic sources are somehow, completely safe while salts from synthetic nitrogen sources are inherently problematic.I refer you again to the salt content of manures, which are non-synthetic nitrogen sources. There really isn't any reason to purchase anything for you pile synthetic or not. Now is not a good time to be planting/transplanting hydrangeas, camellias or azaleas. Although adding more natural product like manure or coffee etc will achieve similar result?2. Will that avoid burning the plants? Common sense is something that often gets displaced by some people when discusing gardening. mixing the organic material by turning.
You're right that the dose of salt is at least part of the issue but the larger question is why introduce those salts at all when there are plenty of other options that don't introduce salt. water starts to run out of the base.On the fourth day after building the heap the compost will need aerating. LOVE this website, only but nettle on in the late spring (new growth) before they flower and go to seed, I don't know about accelerator you shouldn't need it if you turn your compost on a monthly bases even every two weeks. to mature. They had a finished product in a week. Then I found out that LA is the capital of immigrants from all over the world and my name is not that hard to pronounce - if pronounced in the way it's written in English - and so I did! Place a 5-gallon bucket on a sturdy work surface or on the ground. This photo was taken in the garden of a cottage in the Lake District in the spring of 2014. They're going to be there anyway. day 18. It is food for them if used correctly. To see what it will look like while experimenting, any light weight petroleum or cooking oil can be used to simulate a finished product. It is just as hard to tell with it in hand. Originally earth, hay or old sacking was recommended but this recommendation was updated to suggest an old carpet which has now been superseded by a polythene sheet or tarpaulin. Nothing happened. I'm just too cheap to "buy" anything for my compost. compost in two weeks. I even have few in full but bright shade. I rather suspect that compost accelerators are just another way to get our hard-earned money off us - but I could well be wrong! Meanwhile on a trip back to visit my parents in NY we chipped a bunch of junk from their garden and 12 hours later it was 136 degrees. One of the good things that happens in compost is the fungal decomposition of leaves, wood, and other cellulosic materials. We always use Recycled Beer & Cider on our compost heaps, as recommended by Bob Flowerdew - OH is always happy to help. There is no question the AS will heat your pile but as you point out that is strictly a bacterial reaction and the full benefit of compost is hardly restricted to bacteria.
Thanks for your opinions, even the ones that think I am doing things the wrong way!
1) I would have gladly used a free, organic nitrogen source if one was available to me. That's an interesting statement. Any suggestions on how to get the stuff to rot? Hello Pentillie Have you been hibernating? The size of the bins should be about a metre square to enable sufficient heat to be generated
You did not say if these were planted this year or are well established, if there are watering or wilting issues so, I am assuming they are new shrubs. Nutrient information for compost materials? If the compost has not heated to 60-70C within two days the mixture will need adjusting to give the right Green/Browns ratio. What is blackened steel and how is it made? If I could isolate what is in there I could patent an organic wood preservative. I've also had piles of only (or permuch)leaves in a pallet bin heat up, shredded or not and piles of only wood chips too, chips that hours earlier used to be a tree, and dumped in my driveway, heat up. A hydrangea should fix the wilting episode on its own provided that its soil has enough water. You can put outside chairs on top of them to provide extra shade or use umbrellas, or just about anything that you can think of. The straw adds no goodness to the compost ( may even take something away! ) Does anyone know where I can buy Sulfate of ammonia, double superphosphate or potassium sulfate in central Florida? Select a bucket that has not been used to hold chemicals or other potentially harmful contents. In practise a wide range of wooden (and sometimes asbestos cement) bins and varitions in technique using one, Protected them from rain. Doesn't that mean that using the synthetic source is better than taking the leaves to the landfill? Organic substances do indeed have salts but not anywhere near the level of concentration that the synthetics do and the salt content of cow manure isn't likely to be an issue for the backyard composter at all so thats strikes me as a false choice. Ammonium sulfate, 21-0-0 is 21% N and 24% S. A sprinkling of this in a compost pile of leaves that are being piled up for composting should have no salt issues. Water each Garden plants are best pruned to this length or chopped Thanks for the advice. The advantage of having two or three bays to the composting area is obvious in the material can be turned from the first to the second bin with the third There a numerous recipes for making compost in traditional heaps or bins using lime as an additive and I include brief details of a couple more. In the meantime the process is started again using the seconded bin. Get on a Composting Kick (Hello, Free Fertilizer! composting. layer as it is added.
Further layers of greens, manure and soil/limestone are added until the compost heap reaches a height of about five foot. Add 12 ounces of soda -- regular not diet -- to the mixture to introduce extra sugars for microbes to feed on during the decomposition process. People that do not have ready access, or any access at all, to manures need some other form of N, possibly, and what may be most available might be a synthetic source.
heap. Like you say people can use whatever they want in their piles of course but it isn't' being judgmental to point out that some options have ramifications that other don't.This is the phrase I was trying to addressing:Synthetic N is a salt which is incompatible with the life of the bacteria and fungi you're tying to encourage.That is a half truth. yes you should dilute the wee/pee 1:4 I think, I have a watering can just for this job so I can get to the edges. The heap should be built all in The moisture should be checked at this stage using the sponge test squeezing a handful of the compost, which should release just a drop or two of water. The finished compost can be kept to mature. Heavy cat urine is killing my Japanese maple. If you stop and think about it a bit there is free N all over the place if folks are willing to use it. Start building by alternating layers of browns and greens. The method is similar to that decribed above and uses Have also heard that pee should be diluted. The further you stay away from direct 12pm sun, the better. acre. Don't use general purpose fertilizer unless you wanted to add potassium and phosphorus, you are wasting your money on unneeded ingredients. 4) I get the impression that some people don't approve of synthetic fertilizers under any circumstances. My computer shows the last entry above this one as Mar 17 at 11:35 but the thread list shows Mar 18 at 13:01. This aerated the contents and encouraged microbial activity. When you start paying the bills, I'm sure they'll let you decide what goes and what stays. Let them get wet from rain. In fact because of the plentiful nitrogen, they are multiplying and really having a feast. It all breaks down and you can get the finished compost faster. Log in or register to join the conversation. Turning alternate days will add an extra week to the process. The compost heap is During turning material from the outside of the bin should be moved to the centre. One good use for compost is to decompose animal dung and dry leaves or grass clippings along with food scraps. In autumn, I also use bags of straw and chaff garnered after harvesting - when wetted thoroughly and mixed with compost, the straw blackens rapidly and takes everything else with it. I don't suggest mixing them yourself. We generate more than enough waste, brown and green, to feed a pile. Who wouldn't? Most of mine have drip irrigation but a few get water from the regular sprinkler. On the other hand, if the salt index of the ammonium sulfate was a problem, the osmotic pressure would destroy the bacteria. Allow me to high-light:some options have ramifications that other don't. Ammonium Nitrate would also be very high but you can't buy it anymore because it could be used the make bombs. The bacteria don't care if it comes from urea or grass clippings. is placed over the brush core. Any advice on the subject will be greatly appreciated. Luis, Quit shelling out for pricey substitutes that arent even as good. As for the detrimental impact of AS on the micro-herd of the pile I'll stand bythat observation. Just seems like common sense to me. Given that the middle letter "h" is not exactly the Hebrew letter it's more of a "ch" and let me share with you something, when I used to meet up with people and they ask my name I say Shahar in the Hebrew pronunciation that would carry alone a 10 minutes of corrections on how to pronounce it right, so I said the heck with those corrections and for a while I use to go by the translation of my name (which was, by the way, given to me because I was born early in the morning) - Dawn, but spelled Don (although Shahar is a unisex Hebrew name Dawn is not in English). At least then they would be buried and the CO2 would never make it to the atmosphere 5) How exactly does one balance the N and C supplies over the course of a year? found at http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/. Tradition had it that the bigger the heap the bette the http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/, The Rapid Composting Method - ResearchGate, Natural Resources Management and Environment Departmen, http://www.fao.org/docrep/007/y5104e/y5104e05.htm.
But however, where I am may be lost.. Coimbatore method will produce compost in four months, turning a third time will reduce the composting period to three months. Suggesting that synthetic N is inherently counter-productive in compost production, regardless of how it is used, is a disservice. This will still happen when composting grass in a Also try wax and any clear spray varnish or urethane you may have around the house. While waiting for December, review where else in the garden to place them. matter is then added followed by a layer of manure the bin is full. I use compost accelorator; Garrotta is one brand, but B&Q do a cheaper version. Its my opinion that a lot of this can be traced to an over-emphasis on the heat of the pile. I give mine 1 gallon of water in the Spring (per plant per watering) and increase that to 1.5 gallons in mid-May. bin to another as a means of aerating the material and to revitalise the microorganism causing the heap to rise in temperature. I've got a few of those I could put on too. I have chosen to regard Sir Albert Howards Indore method of composting as the traditional one but have include some others to provide variations on the theme. a verylowC:N ratio (greens) decompose very quickly, because they are high in nitrogen, e.g. I have a bunch of leaves from the fall, but very very little green matter to help with the composting process so I took some advice of someone online and added some fertilizer (13-13-13) to the leaves. It is suggested that the larger bins should be 6 or 7 foot high. If I cannot perk them up with water, I may deadhead: cut the petiole string that connects the bloom to the stem. When we hit the daily 100s or so, I may water using the hose at certain times too. the FAO http://www.fao.org/docrep/007/y5104e/y5104e05.htm, Using the Bangalore method at least six months will be required to produce compost,. Unless you get the artist of the exact piece to tell you their proprietary secret, you will need to go through this process anyway :). decklapunless someone is dealing with a truly massive amount of leaves then I can't imagine anyone actually *needing* a product with 21% N.To be fair, it's not really my (or anyone else's) place to say whether someone should compost one way or the other. Layer twigs in the bottom of the heap to The liquids correct iron chlorosis faster than solids but they do not last as long. It was not clear. Either due to heat stress or lack of water or lack of enough water. This followed by a layer of manure applied at Belittling someone because what they do is different from what you might do is counterproductive. The dogs woke me up to go outside so I guess I better go back to sleep! The moisture level of the compost is important and it is recommended that the heap is covered to protect it from drying out and this urine should not be used) and free from bacteria. can be seen near the front of the heap. It can be rainforest wet for years and not break down. Hair, whether from pets or humans, also helps keep some pests away. Materials with Leaves Often Hold the Clues, How to Get Rid of Those Pesky Summer Fruit Flies. The compost was turned to after 6 weeks The cheapest commercial high nitrate fertilizer is ammonium sulphate. The height of the heap will shrink as the material decomposes possibly being reduced to 3-4 feet in the first week. Turning the heap once using the Shore is also a master gardener and a travel agent. I think it'd be an interesting experiment to do a bio-assay on compost made with synthetic N and without to actually see what you're getting. A more apples to apples comparison would be to compare AS to kitchen scraps, bloodmeal, or other grain meals which are readily available.In that more realistic scenario you'll have to admit there is no comparison whatsoever to AS.
Yes, the icecaps are melting, but how is it a proven "fact" that humans are responsible? slightly by retaining the composting material within a cage made of wood, corrugate tin (in the past asbestos sheet was popular! sources for smaller gardens or allotments as heap of less than 3` x 3` will not retain sufficient heat for a hot process to operate effectively. Could I use the compost sooner and lay it on the surface of the ground around the plant instead of planting directly into it? We are headed for a place and time where we don't have as much freedom. Pour 2 gallons of warm water into the bucket. Today we would also add cardboard and shredded paper as a source of carbon. If it is too hot or they cannot get water or they cannot get water fast enough, the plant eventually shuts them down and a white bloom can go from white to brown. It seems to me, from where I'm sitting, that too much thought is put towards nitrogen/carbon mix, I have had umpteen number of piles heat up just from watering with rain water or pond water or just (shudder) building a massive mountain of wood chips/leaves on a lowish area where a gravel road acts like a bowl thus creating a unwanted man made swamp, the wood chips wick up the moisture and the pile gets hot and stays hot, without much aeration on my part, apart from addition of food waste only (on the western side of this pile) no nitrogen source was added, the pile was 50/50 leaves and wood chips, it was 15 feet tall, 50 feet wide and 150 long. Of course I would prevent the compost from touching the plants. Added some horse manure. We were so traumatized we had to eat TWO cherry pies all by ourselves to calm down! You are right if you are only using the compost as a surface mulch. If the antifungal properties are true, then using ammonium sulfate in compost should stop the fungal decomposition for as long as the AS lasts. I can add just what I need for whatever I am doing without building up excess of what I don't need. thanks for any advice. Assuming one doesn't over dose the chemical.3. Tara Shore holds a Bachelor of Science in business finance and has written for online publications since 2007. in the design of compost tumblers for home and garden use, which are said to be capable of producing compost in 21 days, Home, Allotment and Community Composting. In the days where gardens consisted of a large lawn the grass mowings, having a high nitrogen, content rotted formed a wet, black evil smelling slime that would ouse out of the heap. Pour the mixed tonic over the compost pile. And, those populations bounce back post-haste. In future years, as the plants' root system gets larger and the plants become established, wilting episodes will diminish but happen in very hot, very dry or windy conditions so consider if you want to water the day before the weather service says it will be hot or very windy. In the past and non-household situations dried blood, fish meal, waste from brewers etc have been composted using this method. cardboard, Ha. During period when these are not available cardboard, and newspaper can be used if shredded or torn into small pieces. I suspect that the culprit is the Uluhe ferns. I saw a Dirty Jobs episode on the Discovery channel where the workers at a mushroom farm were making compost using large amounts of hay from a horse farm and adding bags and bags of urea. If the material in the heap is turning into a wet black smelly mess, add more browns to raise the ratio e.g. Suggesting that the salts in non-synthetic sources are somehow, completely safe while salts from synthetic nitrogen sources are inherently problematic.I refer you again to the salt content of manures, which are non-synthetic nitrogen sources. There really isn't any reason to purchase anything for you pile synthetic or not. Now is not a good time to be planting/transplanting hydrangeas, camellias or azaleas. Although adding more natural product like manure or coffee etc will achieve similar result?2. Will that avoid burning the plants? Common sense is something that often gets displaced by some people when discusing gardening. mixing the organic material by turning.
You're right that the dose of salt is at least part of the issue but the larger question is why introduce those salts at all when there are plenty of other options that don't introduce salt. water starts to run out of the base.On the fourth day after building the heap the compost will need aerating. LOVE this website, only but nettle on in the late spring (new growth) before they flower and go to seed, I don't know about accelerator you shouldn't need it if you turn your compost on a monthly bases even every two weeks. to mature. They had a finished product in a week. Then I found out that LA is the capital of immigrants from all over the world and my name is not that hard to pronounce - if pronounced in the way it's written in English - and so I did! Place a 5-gallon bucket on a sturdy work surface or on the ground. This photo was taken in the garden of a cottage in the Lake District in the spring of 2014. They're going to be there anyway. day 18. It is food for them if used correctly. To see what it will look like while experimenting, any light weight petroleum or cooking oil can be used to simulate a finished product. It is just as hard to tell with it in hand. Originally earth, hay or old sacking was recommended but this recommendation was updated to suggest an old carpet which has now been superseded by a polythene sheet or tarpaulin. Nothing happened. I'm just too cheap to "buy" anything for my compost. compost in two weeks. I even have few in full but bright shade. I rather suspect that compost accelerators are just another way to get our hard-earned money off us - but I could well be wrong! Meanwhile on a trip back to visit my parents in NY we chipped a bunch of junk from their garden and 12 hours later it was 136 degrees. One of the good things that happens in compost is the fungal decomposition of leaves, wood, and other cellulosic materials. We always use Recycled Beer & Cider on our compost heaps, as recommended by Bob Flowerdew - OH is always happy to help. There is no question the AS will heat your pile but as you point out that is strictly a bacterial reaction and the full benefit of compost is hardly restricted to bacteria.
Thanks for your opinions, even the ones that think I am doing things the wrong way! 1) I would have gladly used a free, organic nitrogen source if one was available to me. That's an interesting statement. Any suggestions on how to get the stuff to rot? Hello Pentillie Have you been hibernating? The size of the bins should be about a metre square to enable sufficient heat to be generated